On 19/09/2010 17:46, Ronald Raygun wrote:
Lobster wrote:

On 18/09/2010 17:07, Jim K wrote:
On 18 Sep, 14:22, wrote:
On 18/09/2010 08:58, Jim K wrote:
On 18 Sep, 08:27, stuart wrote:
On 17/09/2010 22:11, jkn wrote:

Fine, but that Ronseal stuff isn't 2-part, is it?

On reading the COSH data, maybe not, but then why the big plastic cap
on the can? That usually contains the hardener IME.
Can't vouch for it if it's not 2 part but maybe it works well enough
with an acetone solvent

strewth....
the big plastic cap is the "handy" kettle in which to pour some
(single part) hardener (styrene) and dip your (single use) brush.....

where's this "2 part wood hardener" then?
gotta proper link????

That would be hehttp://tinyurl.com/36d4sy7

erm.... that's filler not preservative??

Thoughts that what he meant - it comes in two parts, of which one is a
sachet of catalyst "hardener". Never heard of a wood preservative in
two parts.

He doesn't want filler for trowelling on, he wants a liquid for painting
on the wood, and which then sets hard.

I think what he means is some kind of runny resin which, after you've mixed
in the catalyst, stays liquid for long enough to soak into the wood before
it cures. I guess he thinks one-part hardeners won't go hard enough.


IMO it's more a question of how long the resin will take to cure when
it's applied to a porous surface. Normally you want to get on with the
painting without fear of solvent being trapped under the new coating.

If 2 part wood hardeners are no longer available I would use a standard
polyester resin, although thin layers can still take a few hours to cure
in cool conditions. Low viscosity resins and accelerators are available
from GRP suppliers if you want to get serious.