On Sep 17, 12:21*pm, Karl Townsend
wrote:
...
Thanks, these parts are diodes. One is an anode stud, the other a
cathode stud. Do I need two of each? Draw me a picture of how to make
these parts into a bridge rectifier, please. (I'm thinking each AC
line gets one of each with both cathodes on one block and both anodes
on the other.) Does a cathode or an anode stud go to ground?

Do I tap these into an AL block for heat shink ? For my "hot" bock
could I also tap cap connections and four spots to send power to the
four servo amps? I would plan to fuse each servo here.

Karl

If you don't already know, I'm not going to help you blow yourself up.
There are too many subtle ways to get this wrong, like a burr on the
mounting hole that lets a diode overheat. I've taken long field
service trips to repair such mistakes.

No matter how carefully I write operating instructions, the first
person to test them makes a mistake I didn't anticipate. "When I nod
my head you hit it" Now when I say "Press any key to continue" I test
for Alt, Shift and Ctrl, and fake a BSOD with the bell ringing if the
joker hits one of them.

The Wiki:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diode_bridge

You put two of the same gender on the (+) and the (-) heatsinks, or
two opposite ones on the AC if that somehow is more convenient. If you
used four identical packages you'd need more insulated heatsinks. The
problem is making good strong heat-resistant insulators from common
materials. Reinforced phenolic sheet is good, most plastics aren't. I
wouldn't trust perfboard to carry much weight.

Personally I use a large Variac to bring up high power circuits
gradually, watching the line current for unexpected increases. At
first the line fuse is the smallest fast-acting one that should
survive.

jsw