"Jon Danniken" wrote in message
...
Don Foreman wrote:

Looks like the slag is inaccessible because it's under the edge of the
joining piece. Instead of starting with a shoulder, weld that crack
shut first and then build it up.

Indeed it is under the edge. I still have yet to master welding up a gap,
which was why I was trying to weld up the shoulder, but perhaps this is a
good opportunity for me to learn it.

What rod and technique would you use for that?

Thanks,

Jon

In my experiences with welding miles of tubing, it has to do mainly with the
angle of the rod and the positioning and maintaining of the puddle. If you
wash over to the thinnest part on the T, you will probably blow a hole
unless you are welding it cold, or using a rod like 60210 or 6011. If this
is not a critical application, you could fill the root with a fast pass from
a MIG, or 6011 stinger negative, or even a 3/32" 6010 stinger positive,
clean it up, and put a topper of 7018 that would let you go farther out on
to the thin material, and support the part of the puddle that you have to
flow out there into that crack that has no root pass.

Learn how to wash puddles. It is very valuable when welding a piece of
light tubing on to a base plate so you don't blow a hole in the tube. DO
leave two diagonally placed openings in the weld so water can drain from the
inside. Even tack it so there is a 1/32" or so gap. Unless you are going
to fill it with concrete, that is.

HTH. If you are still having problems, I can take some flickr pictures that
will show it a little better than I can tell it.

Steve