DIYbanter - View Single Post - Removing steel door frame from concrete block wall?

aemeijers

On 9/11/2010 6:12 PM, wrote:
(snip)
Appreciate your advice, but what is "car siding"? Thickeners? I can
muddle through cutting wood and fitting the hinges...just bought a wood
chisel to get rid of old globby caulk where the block meets the garage
wall. The door faces the front of the property, but blocked from view
from the street by the house. The garage is in good shape (brick) and we
are also preparing to paint the block section dark red matched to the
red brick of the garage. Any nicely painted door should be okay in the
location. Garage is recovering from a tree branch through it's
roof...got another huge oak to take down. )

'Car siding' is what they used to cover RR box cars with, 100+ years
ago. Tongue and groove plank, often with a bevel on the edges to reduce
splinters. Often available with a matching V-groove down the middle,
mostly for looks, but can also reduce the tendency to cup. T&G is better
for doors, because wood expands and contracts, and simple planks would
leak air at every joint. In pre-plywood pre-drywall days, became very
popular for outbuildings and interior use in porches, utility rooms and
such. Often used for wainscoting in areas where plaster would not stand
up, and they could not afford masonry or tile. Last gasp of wide
popularity was the 'knotty pine' fad for basements, porches, attic
conversions, and such, in the 1950s or so. The purists on here will say
I am stretching the term 'car siding', and I probably am exceeding what
the industry says it is. To me, it is any wood T&G plank (as opposed to
clapboard or sheet goods) siding material.

As to the other terms- those are just what popped into my head- to make
it all as thick as the door you are replacing, you will need to add wood
in spots where stuff attaches. As to how to build a shed-style door- do
a Google search for 'how to build a shed door' , 'how to build a Z-brace
door', etc. Lotsa how-to pictures out there, and even some videos. If I
was building a door like that, I'd put square-edge planks all around the
perimeter, one horizontally at mid-point, and the diagonal braces rising
from lower corners on hinge side, to the upper corners near lockset and
top outside corner. To the frame, the door edge would look just as thick
as it does now. Done carefully, a door like this can be very strong.

Now one of the actual trim carpenters on here will jump in and explain
the correct way to do it, and use the proper words.

--
aem sends...