Ok, well I finally decided to use my old benchtop Delta radial-arm drill
press [should I say "RADP" in this forum :-) ]

I don't guess many people have one of these, but it could have been done
with a regular drill press if one altered the table by machining the bottom
flat with a milling machine to accommodate a router base.

This old drill press I have was given to me by a customer who was an
amateur woodworker while I was restoring his garage after a fire in 1985.
It only had smoke damage and I replaced the chuck with a Jacobs. So not
much money spent so far.

The drill press had too little room under the table for my router, so I
machined a piece of thick aluminum (1/2") and 6" wide to extend the router
past the table. The router base is mounted under this extension. Of
course, the pin is held by the drill chuck, which extended out to meet the
router bit. On top of it all is a plywood top.

No need for details, as it took a fair amount of drilling and tapping and
some trial and error.

It works great; it does what I need to do. The problem of having to raise
the router to cut in smaller increments is a pain, but this is only with
thicker lumber. Unfortunately, all of my cuts will be thicker stuff. If I
cut in one pass, it shears off the parts with an end-grain, so I gotta do
more and smaller passes. Dust collection is a real problem... face mask
time.

A pin router is the only way I can cut in increments and quit eating up
bearings on router bits. I recommend the use of downward spiraling
mortising bits and use no less than 1/2" stuff so that nothing snaps off or
bends. Putting a thin sacrificial spacer between the workpiece and pattern
is necessary. A thicker pattern is a happy pattern (3/8-1/2). When you
make the hole in the drill press table, cut it large enough to let the
collet through, enabling one to use shorter bits if necessary.

By dropping the router out of this setup, you still have your drill press to
use as you wish, so long as you don't move the table.

Hope this helps someone. woodstuff