"Pete C." wrote:

Karl Townsend wrote:

I have Kroil soaking on the brake drum screws and we'll see about
pulling and inspecting those eventually, though they do seem to be
working ok. Some bent lift links will spend some time in my press for
some straightening. Overall the tractor seems to be in fairly decent
shape.

If you get those screws out without drilling, let me know. I've had to
use the left hand drill bit on the last six tractors.

One on each side came out without even using Kroil. The other two didn't
want to unscrew by hand so I shot them with Kroil and let them sit a few
days. I'll probably try them with my impact driver to let the shock help
break any remaining rust.


The next weak point on this tractor is the rear axles. jack the rear
up and try to wobble the wheels side to side, most likely you'll have
a lot of play. There's a taper spline to replace. if not too bad, just
the spline on the hub, otherwise, the axle too (painful $)

They seem ok, but the wheels are off it at the moment.


If you want, a company called genesee products makes an electronic
points replacement that fits right in the distributor. I've left my
tractor sit over a month and tried it at -30. Starts in a second. of
course, that includes a change over to 12 volt GM alternator system
too.

Already have the Delco alternator and 12V batt on this one. I saw the
Genesee ignition modules, but so far the current ignition components are
ok. If they act up at some point I'll recommend going electronic. I've
got a nice little Kubota B7100DT, so I don't need no steenkin' ignition
on mine

I stuck to hydraulic pump back on the tractor today to see what the
symptoms are. There appears to be some fluid flow, and the lift will
track the position control lever very slowly as long as there isn't any
weight on them. If I stand on the lift arms they go back down, even with
the position control up. It would appear that the lift piston probably
needs new seals.

I pulled the pump back off and opened it up and it looks ok. The pistons
don't seem to have any notable scoring, the valve balls look good and
the valve seats look ok as well.

I pulled the line set off so I can clean them out, and I guess I'll be
pulling the lift cover so I can tear into that and also clean out the
hydraulic sump fully. I did drain the fluid after the test and it didn't
look bad, probably fairly recent. It will be replaced with UTF once I do
seals on the piston and anything else I find wrong.

Also, I can't seem to budge the test plug, which is going to make it
rather difficult to install a pressure gauge to see what pressure I'm
getting.

Thoughts?