On 2010-08-28, James Waldby wrote:
On Sat, 28 Aug 2010 05:31:27 +0000, DoN. Nichols wrote:

[ ... ]

My MGAs had SU fuel pumps as well. If it quit on the road, the
trick to get gas to get to a safe place to start was to turn the
ignition key on and of several cycles (no steering lock so it was safe)
and this would pump enough fuel into the float bowls to drive for a
little while.

Then pull over, open the trunk and get out one half of the jack
rod, tilt the seats forward and remove the cover over the batteries (two
6V batteries, one on each side of the driveshaft), get back in, turn on
the ignition, and bring the end of the rod down smartly on the fuel pump
(behind the passenger's seat) and it would run for a while. Repeat as
needed until I could get to work or home, then climb under, unscrew the
nut securing the points cap, remove the bolts securing the toggle points
assembly, rotate a couple of turns to change the toggle point, and
reassemble. Fine for another year or so. :-) (I understand that they
later added a capacitor to reduce the burn rate on the points.)

[ ... ]

Then the article goes on to list the seven "more common problems
with SU fuel pumps" (burned and/or sticking points, stiffened
diaphragm, leakage past valves, broken pedestal, various fuel
leaks around loose or cracked parts, air leak, clogged lines)
and explains how to fix them.

Hmm ... I'm surprised that I did not experience a broken
pedestal, given the number of times I bashed the pump on its side. The
other problems (other than burned points) I did not experience -- but
perhaps because when I first rebuilt my pump I replaced the diaphragm as
well as the points. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

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