On 8/23/2010 10:53 PM, Jeff Thies wrote:
On 8/23/2010 3:47 PM, dpb wrote:
keith wrote:
...

Have you ever cut one in half?

Certainly, many times I've cut larger ones down for smaller openings or
made a Dutch door out of a full-length one. Why, do you ask?

It wouldn't be difficult to work out a mounting as well; a moly from
the
bottom or a tee-nut in an inserted block or similar would work just
fine
since any access on the latter would be covered by the proposed surface
sheet anyway.

Utter nonsense. The door will simply crush or the fasteners ('t'-
nuts) will pull right through. Hollow core doors are fairly strong
over a large area but *not* over a small area (where there is no
support).

Not if you place the fastener through the bottom ply or add a local
blocking or a sleeve. As noted, (read next sentence again )it seems
like more effort than what could be gained but don't see any reason it
couldn't be done...

It seems like more hassle than gained, and the thickness could be an
issue depending ...

Of all problems with this (stupid) idea, why would the thickness
matter? RASs can usually be cranked up much higher than the blade
(minus motor) depth anyway. A solid-core door might work, but a
hollow-core door is an idea doomed to fail.

As noted, would mostly depend on the arrangement for the fence mounting
not the table itself. Generally w/ smaller saws of the
DeWalt/B&D/Craftsman ilk which one would presume is what OP has the

Old Craftsman 10".

fence mounting is simply a couple of thumbscrews that are at height of
the thickness of a 3/4" table. W/ the thicker table, that would tend to
be too low and let the fence lean more easily since would need wider
fence to gain the desired height above table surface. The actual
thickness itself wouldn't make much, if any difference, on the column
height, no...


... Neither can be warped to
adjust for flatness, though. MDF is still the best solution.


What about MDO? Is that better than MDF for this or for counter tops?
What about MDO on the bottom and a sacrificial MDF?

I like to rip 2x4's, and cut up plywood. I'm thinking of a table about
4' long (current is 8'). How should I set up the workspace? Roller
stands and a support table on the feed end?

I usually make the fence out of fir bolted to some angle stock
(bedframe). MDO/MDF fence or something else? I've been leaving a little
space between the fence and the table for the sawdust to fall through.

I'm moving the saw to a more open workspace and I'd like to get it set
up right instead of the half assed way I have it now. I don't know
anyone who has a home wood shop so I'm fumbling around a bit...

Jeff

--

In my case I have a workbench built along the wall of my garage, and the
RAS is set into the bench about a third of the way back from the door.
That way I have plenty of space to feed long pieces. The saw table is
aligned so it is level with the bench top. Of course to use the bench
for feeding long stock I have to clean off the work bench first. For
some reason it keeps getting cluttered up with tools and stuff.

Bill