"Aaron Eel (Ehrin)" wrote in message
...
On Aug 22, 6:19 pm, "RBM" wrote:
"dpb" wrote in message

...





Aaron Eel (Ehrin) wrote:
On Aug 22, 9:26 am, dpb wrote:
Aaron Eel (Ehrin) wrote:
On Aug 22, 2:15 am, mm wrote:
On Sat, 21 Aug 2010 22:14:56 -0700 (PDT), "Aaron Eel (Ehrin)"
wrote:
... 1-1/2hp submersible pump...and the well is about 90 feet deep.
...
Just this morning the problem started. The shower was running and
it
just stopped. I waited about 2 minutes and I heard the pump kick
on,
and the water returned (with comparable pressure). Then after a
minute
it stopped again. ...
The readinf with the power on, points closed and pump off was 45psi.
The kick-on psi is 40. The hose was turned on and the holding tank
was
emptied. 0psi. Nothing for a minute or so. Poits still hot but
closed.
Then the pump motor kicks on until about 45psi is again realized.,
Then it shuits off. Points STILL closed. I guess it would repeat this
over and over but I didn;t want to mess up my new points.
This whole time the pump had power but did
not come on at all. Then it finally came on after another minute.
It
ran the pressure up to about 45psi and suddenly stopped. It sort of
fizzled out instead of the normal kick it puts down when it stops.
And
the points still remained closed!
I went ahead and installed a new pressure switch just to be sure.
The
same thing happened. I checked to see if the lines were all hot and
they were. The pressure in the holding tank was at 38psi. Just
where
it should be. The only thing left now is the control box (which was
installed new with the pump) or the pump itself. I have some water
now
to get me by, but I only turn the power on at the breaker and only
if
we really need it. And only for that time. Any ideas?
Is it overheating, or oversomethinging, and then resetting itself a
few minutes later?
Question: What is the cylindrical 'thing' in the control box (the
electrical box between the switch and the pump motor)? It looks like
some kind of capacitor or something. Could it be some sort of fuse
that has gone bad?
That's because it is "some kind of capacitor" -- specifically, the
start
cap. Generally submersibles will have both a start and run external
cap
so think that it's likely there is more than one.

Possible is weak cap; have you ever had issues of lack of water supply
in the well itself? Has it been unusually dry this summer or have you
used more than normal amounts of water recently?

Not that I know of. It's been raining here for weeks now. We never had
a dry season here this year either. The local water table is way up
there.

A relatively new pump _shouldn't_ have developed a bearing or motor
problem, but certainly stranger things have happened. Is this a 240V
pump I presume? Is it 2- or 3-wire to the hole?

Yes. 220 thre wire (including ground)

Need to check motor
currents against nameplate while it is running to determine condition
there.

Sounds like the well service people are in your future.

How do I check the capacitor? I don't see how you can get a tester on
it. It's inside that little steel box and inaccessible unless I open
it (thereby disconnecting it). Logic would dictate that I check to
see if 200 volts is exiting that box but the lines disappear down into
the well. I could just buy a new capacitor but they’re 40 bucks.

If it runs on occasion, it's getting power; I doubt that is the
intermittent.

Can't envision the setup where the enclosure door would disable anything
other than the manual start/stop/reset buttons.

Typical well control box has the hardware mounted onto the backside of the
cover. When you remove the cover, everything but the wiring and terminals
comes with it.





Again, I'd start w/ checking the motor currents on each leg while
running;
to do it you need a clampon meter. If you don't have I still think the
well service folks are in your future...

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Yeah... I guess we're beginning to lose each other in the chatter.
These types of forums are only good for one round. Possibly two.

The wires coming from the breaker box and into the pressure switch are
(1) red (1) black) (1) copper. They are single stranded. The control
box has one capacitor attached to the removable face and a small blue
'chip' mounted next to it. But only one capacitor. Not two. There are
(6) prongs on the removable face going in to (6) receptacles on the
actual mounted 'box' part.

Update: I just replaced the control box. $57.00. The pump and points
work fine now. But what made it go to begin with? If you read my
previous post, you know that the 3/4" steel pipe containing the hot-
wires from the breaker has been compromised by rust. It is right now
totally engulfed and submerged in water (just like it has been for
years, I'd reckon). I now need to rent a ditch witch and lay a new
pipe. That or use direct burial wire. Does anyone know what depth I
must lay down the new wire? And another question would be, can a Ditch
Witch pop thru one inch tree roots? It was probably just sand when the
wires were put down the first time, but now the yard is honey-combed
with soft roots.

Thanks!!

Aaron

The black-Red- and ground are the feed. They go to the pressure switch,
then, typically two wires plus ground go from the pressure switch to the
well control box, and attach to line 1 and line 2 . Then you will have three
other wires, and possibly ground that go from the control box to the well
pump