If you are in production mode or do a lot of woodworking then by all
means have a saw for each task. For the rest of us a few compromises
are in order. For me that means that a decent combo blade stays in my
saw and does everything unless I have a pretty big rip or crosscut job
to get done.Although I have a Forrest WWII, I usually have my Frued
TK906 in the saw. If I am doing some serious ripping, either in volume
or in thickness, I switch to a rip blade and the one you show is
pretty decent. If I am doing a lot of fine cross cuts or working in
good plywood I switch to an appropriate dedicated blade. From your
description, you need a good combo blade. There are tons of opinions
on here as to what is a good combo blade, so do a little research. If
you like Frued, their site has some decent info, but beware that they
have some good quality blades and some terribly crappy blades (i.e.
any sold by Lowes) some look them up and order what you want. Amazon
usually has decent prices on Frued blades.


On Wed, 18 Aug 2010 14:07:07 -0700 (PDT), jtpr
wrote:

On Aug 18, 4:47*pm, Swingman wrote:
On 8/18/2010 3:32 PM, jtpr wrote:





On Aug 18, 4:29 pm, *wrote:
On Aug 18, 4:27 pm, *wrote:

On Aug 18, 4:04 pm, *wrote:

On Aug 18, 4:03 pm, *wrote:

On Aug 18, 4:00 pm, *wrote:

I have been using a Freud, forget which one exactly. *Anyway I've had
it for too many years and want a new one. *I have a Woodcraft near me
as well as a HD and Lowes. *I need to pick it up before the weekend.
Has anybody used the RIDGID 10 In. x 90 Tooth Ultimate Polished Finish
Saw Blade? *http://tinyurl.com/2fvoo24

Other then that it seems that Woodcraft is my best bet. *I am looking
at something in the $75 range, so the Forrest is a bit pricey for me.
I liked the look of this one:

http://tinyurl.com/3yygjty

Any opinions?

-Jim

Yup, great value. In a proper table saw, you won't need a jointer.

Wow, that was quick. *Which one are you referring to?

Jim

The Freud Glueline Rip. Ripping is a whole different blade issue and
only ripping blades rip. Combo blades make a poor second choice.

That Ridgid blade you linked to won't rip... it will just burn....well
you probably will get through some wood..but.

Thank you. *Tell me, what is the difference between a "glue line" rip
blade and just a rip blade? *Just the quality of the cut? *And what
happens if you just leave this in your saw and do occasional cross
cuts with it. *I mean I generally use my Mitre saw for that but when I
do fine mitre cuts on boxes and things I like to use the table saw.

"GlueLine Rip" is simply a marketing term and has no technical reference
merit.

That said, I own a Freud "GlueLine Rip", but a regular kerf, and it does
everything its marketing term suggests.

An excellent ripping blade for the price.

It will do crosscuts, but slower and not optimum cuts. If you're serious
about woodworking you really need to use the right tool for the job.

On that same note, unless you're just seriously underpowered on your
table saw, I feel a thicker blade makes for a more stable blade, with
less vibration, and particularly when ripping hardwoods, so I forego the
thin kerf variety when ripping for my own use.

As always, YMMV ...

--www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

I have Rigid 3650, so not really underpowered (for what I do), but not
a 3hp either.

I agree with the right tool statement. But if I'm doing a one-off
project with a few crosscuts, some mitre's and rips, do you really
change your blade each time? However, if I was doing something where
I could do all the cross cuts first, then the rips I could see it.

Maybe I need a second table saw...;+}

-Jim