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Puddin' Man Puddin' Man is offline
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Default Technics SA-R210 Receiver

On Sat, 21 Aug 2010 02:49:17 +0100, "Arfa Daily" wrote:

Reworking cracked joints on a practical level involves no more than applying
a nice hot iron to the side of the joint, then when the existing solder
melts, running a small amount - no more than 2 or 3 mm - of new flux-cored
solder into the molten joint. Hold the iron on the joint for a further 1 to
2 seconds, then slide it quickly away. This should leave a nice shiny joint
(assuming this is standard leaded solder) with no signs of a crack,
dullness, or crystalline appearance. If you want to be really pedantic about
the job, you can remove the existing solder first, before making a new joint
with fresh solder, but in order to do that, you would need at the very least
some solder wick, and if you lack the soldering experience to be able to go
for this repair without checking on the best way to go about it first, I
guess that it's going to be unlikely that you have any, or the experience to
use it to clean the joint.


Much thanks, but I might've gotten ahead of myself a bit ...

I have 2 SA-R210's, both with problems. I put one in the shop about 10
years ago, they said they resoldered this and that, so I figgered
the problem with the other one would be cracked solder on components
attached to heat-sink, per suggestions in this thread.

I have it apart on a work-bench, and can look closely. When I carefully
probe solder points on components attached to heat-sink, I can't find
any obvious cracks. On the Q701, 702, 705 units, there is some funny
looking copper colored crud (flux?) around all solder points. The
Q705 E connector appears to be soldered-to (co-conductive with) one end of a
R704 resistor(?), but it's been that way for years. This is on a unit that I
bought on Ebay around 5 years ago.

If I have a "thermally intermittent power regulator" (plastic near-square
unit maybe 1" square, marked "Stereo Power Amp 3102 A"), I guess I'm out of
luck?

Anything else to look for? Other solder points on the bottom of the main
board look clean-as-a-whistle. Other components to examine/test??

Thanks,
P

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