On Sun, 8 Aug 2010 00:41:14 -0700 (PDT), Higgs Boson
wrote:

On Aug 6, 9:50*pm, "
wrote:
On Fri, 6 Aug 2010 16:38:17 -0400, "RBM" wrote:

"keith" wrote in message
...
On Aug 6, 6:02 am, "RBM" wrote:
Also, can you explain "split countertop receptacle"? What is the

"split" about?
I went on-line to get a definition, but never did find one as such.
Found a number of sites, but all
too technical for me. Whatever the job turns out to be, I will have
to hire a qualified
electrician; this is not a DIY, even with help.

Also: You say "The countertop receptacles should be on GFCI protected
circuits whereas the microwave
and oven are not so critical that way." Can you explain the reason?

Also: Someone in this thread suggested refrigerator cycling on might
be causing the trips.
I just checked by disabling the breaker governing MW and gas oven, and
it does NOT govern the refrig.

Last: Would doing the "split countertop receptacle" obviate the
necessity of replacing what
might be a defective breaker controlling the MW and gas oven, leading
to repeated trips?

TIA to all for your continued help! Much appreciated.

HB

A split receptacle is what they do in kitchens in Canada. It's two
circuits
to one outlet. It's not typically done in the U.S. In the U.S. all
kitchen
counter top outlets are supposed to be GFCI protected, regardless of what
they're used for. All you really need to do to remedy your problem, is
run
a
dedicated 20 amp circuit and outlet for this microwave.

Which still leaves him with only one countertop receptacle, which
cannot handle both a toaster and a tea kettle - there is a reason
Canadian codes are more stringent than US - They make a lot more
sense.

To remedy the problem and live with the same restrictions he now has,
just replace the breaker. If spending the money to add a new circuit -
get 2 for just a bit more than the one - the labour will be virtually
identical, and the material cost negligibly higher (14/3 or 12/3
instead of 14/2 or 12/2 cable is MABEE 30% more expensive - more
likely 15% or so.

You have no idea how many receptacles , circuits, or countertops the OP
has.
What the OP should do, is determine exactly what his problem is, then fix
it
and not willy nilly replacing parts like a bad mechanic

Often replacing parts is the cheapest solution. *If parts cost is
trivial compared to labor it's the way to go. *It's a lot better
advice to give long-distance, too.

I'm not disagreeing with you, however if it's a solution, and it's cheap,
great, but if it doesn't solve the problem, it's jus a waste of time.

That's kinda redundant, no? *"If it works, it works but if it doesn't, you
should have done something else", sort of argument.

In many of these situations, if the OP would just answer a few questions, a
lot can be determined. In this case the OP has a near new microwave that
draws 14 amps. He has a house built in the forties. He does know that the
circuit is not dedicated to the microwave, but it's still not clear how many
other outlets might be on that circuit. Outlets that may be in other rooms,
and drawing current that the OP doesn't know about. It's also not clear if
it's a 15 or 20 amp circuit. If it's 15 amp, and not dedicated, and the
microwave draws 14 amps, you can change breakers all day, and your not going
to solve the problem.

Others have brought this up. *Others have also, rightly, pointed out that
circuit breakers weaken after multiple trips.

Now THAT is interesting! Just as a matter of intellectual curiosity,
what makes
the breaker "weaken after multiple trips". Inquiring minds...

*It should be replaced anyway.
If that solves the problem, all done. *If not, you're right; the problem was
something else.

That seems to be the consensus, so here goes finding an electrician,
fingers crossed.

Don't forget to explain about weakening after multiple trips

Not sure, but I think it's wear on the mechanical parts (springs, friction
surfaces to determine trip levels, etc.). These things, unless rated as
switches, aren't intended to be cycled manually either.