Thread: Tub re-caulk
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Evan[_3_] Evan[_3_] is offline
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Default Tub re-caulk

On Jul 31, 12:16*am, Higgs Boson wrote:
On Jul 30, 7:07*pm, "larry moe 'n curly"
wrote:



Higgs Boson wrote:
I am having a very long and annoying time removing the old caulk from
my tub where it meets the tile wall. *Somebody did a terrible job
recaulking, a while back. *I tried repeatedly to deal with the mold
exteriorly with various mildewcides. *Nothing worked, so I have now
grasped the nettle, and day by day, am chipping away at this train
wreck with various tools, mainly a razor blade in a straight holder.
Ghastly business!


Use caulk remover, sold in tubes that look just like those for bathtub
caulk. *DAP makes it, and it's green goo. *Lacquer thinner also works,
but the fumes are strong. * Only when all the old caulk is gone can
you do a really good job of removing the mildew, such as with bleach
or Lysol. *Clean that off with alcohol or lacquer thinner before
applying new caulk so it sticks better. *BTW, bathtub caulk contains
mildewcide.


OH,THANK YOU THANK YOU for all suggestions. *I *should have realized
there might be such a product. *I do have sort of a "heat gun" --
actually it's the tip of a soldering iron *-- but I'll try that DAP
stuff first. * David thinks common bleach is as good a mildewcide as
any.
Other suggestions?

Also, how effective is the mildewcide in bathtub caulk (specifically
silicone, which has been recommended by most (all?).
IOW, do I need to add anything?

TIA



LOL... If you are using a soldering iron to try and de-caulk a tub,
no wonder you are having troubles...

You need a HEAT GUN, which is basically an industrial strength
hair dryer, which will provide more heat over a broader area than
what a soldering iron will be able to put out...

You heat the old caulking and it will come out much easier with
your razor scraper and other tools...

~~ Evan