Jim Yanik wrote:

Sum Guy wrote in :

Jeff The Drunk wrote:

Paint thinner, gasoline or lighter fluid works for me.

Let's see,,, ah yes I did say "on plastic."

All 3 come in plastic cans, so what is the problem?
What type of plastic do you have?

Not chemical resistant plastic.

Thanks for the troll attempt, now move along.

Incorrect use of the term troll.

And you never mentioned what type of plastic you have.

"Decorative" is not a type of plastic.

A lot of solvents won't destroy plastic. Nylon is another matter.

Acetone, toluene, laquer thinner will tend to melt most plastics, but
you will get your label off and the residue from the glue - you might
temporarily soften the plastic while doing it, and alter it's finish
slightly.

those solvents can also cause cracking or "crazing".

Of those 3, acetone is least likely to harm the plastic in question.

You might also try nitromethane. You can find it at hobby stores - it's
the fuel used for model airplanes.

risky because of the fumes. it might also be absorbed by the skin,and give
headaches,etc.

Nitromethane will soften and remove dry superglue (cyanoacrylate) by the
way - way better than acetone (or nail polish) will.

You might also try MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) but again, keep the
exposure time to the plastic to a minimum.


MEK is nasty on plastics.Risky.

you could also try vegetable oil,

BINGO! The others *might* work on some plastics but on others they can
dissolve the plastic or cause it to haze over. Why don't you simply
check with someone who might know, like Rubbermaid. Reading their
website a couple of years ago and they put out an FAQ on removing
labels from their products (and by implication their competitors).
Cooking oil (vegetable, olive, etc) is by far the safest and will
eventually work on every adhesive likely to be used to attach labels.

WD-40,isopropyl alcohol.
Goo-Gone is an orange/citrus oil based product.

BTW,I use charcoal lighter fluid for bug and tar removal on my car.
I think it's basically kerosene,or similar to it,but I haven't verified
that.

Most vehicles these days have a list of chemicals that can be used on
which parts of the car but unfortunately it's usually in the workshop
manual and is intended for the body repair section of the dealer. Mine
runs a couple of pages and contains such gems as "alcohol should not
be used on the bumper bar covers except when completely dried off in a
few seconds".