On Sun, 25 Jul 2010 10:23:22 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:
On Sat, 24 Jul 2010 21:44:41 -0400, GeoLane at PTD dot NET GeoLane at
PTD dot NET wrote:
Sounds like you need The TOOL. WHich on many surface grinders etc
etc..is a pin spanner or clutch spanner that holds the adapter while
you break the nut off.
I've come to the conclusion I'm going to need a special tool too -
that pin spanner you mentioned. Not sure how to lock the right side
so that the flange can be unscrewed from the spindle. I ASSume it's
screwed on and not pressed on, and I don't know if either or both are
right hand threads or left hand threads. I was hoping someone here
might have replaced the bearings on one of these critters and would
know how to get the flanges off.
I uploaded the photos.
Here's an overview of the head I'm talking about. The head is a model
B923A. I'm not sure why, but the right hand flange is intentionally
about 1.5" farther from the motor than the left side. The former
owner put that brass collar on and it doesn't fit the banjo for the
wheel guards and I want to remove that - preferably without cutting it
off.
http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/x...eadCloseup.jpg
Here's a closeup of the right side showing the two holes in the face
of the flange. The circumference of the flange looks rough, but
that's the rosin I had wetted with alcohol to temporarily "glue" it to
the wood. The metal is still smooth and unmarred.
http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/x...attachment.jpg
Here's what I meant by trying to use 2x4's as wrenches. Even with
rosin on the circumference of the flanges, I couldn't get the wood to
grip tight enough to unscrew the flanges.
http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/x...x4wrenches.jpg
The flanges are soft, so I hated to mar the circumference with a pipe
wrench. I had tried putting a band clamp / hose clamp on the outer
surfaces and then gripping the circumference with pipe wrenches, but
no go. The pipe wrenches on hose clamps was actually the first thing
I tried before going to the wooden wrenches, but I hadn't thought to
hit the flange with Kroil before I did that, so it might be worth a
second try that way.
RWL
I have KO Lee 300 with the same or close to the same head on it.
When I got it..both flanges had pipe wrench marks.
Sometimes..you do what you gotta do, carefully and keep a file handy for
afterwards. But the pin spanner is something you really need, no matter
what. Fairly easy to make btw..just use something better than nails for
hte pins. Dowel pins are good
Gunner
One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch
Parts manuals for the K.O. Lee, B923 Motor Assembly, part No. B923A,
are available for downloading on the Web...
Try
http://www.kolee.com/PARTSMANUALS/ta...5/Default.aspx
for one source.
I believe that the part you are attempting to remove is called a
"Wheel Flange" and the outer washer, which you do not show, is called
a "Keyed Wheel Flange". Looking at several other K.O. Lee grinders
this use of a keyed outer wheel flange appears to be common with these
machines.
Cheers,
John D. Slocomb
(jdslocombatgmail)