On Fri, 23 Jul 2010 15:31:58 -0600, wrote
(in article
):

On Jul 23, 4:03*pm, Bruce wrote:
On Mon, 19 Jul 2010 20:16:07 -0600, MIKE- wrote
(in article ):



On 7/19/10 8:53 PM, wrote:
You know, sometimes the most simplest thing turns into
analysis paralysis.

Want to *make ZCI insert for my JWTS-10 Jet. I bought a ZCI some
time ago and I measured the thickness - 3/8". I measured the one
on the JET, same and just for fun, I measured from the leveling
flange to the top of the saw 3/8".

To me, it sounds like 1) another router set up after I
already mount the flush bit to trim the blank 2) more time.

Why wouldn't you just use 3/8" ply or phenolic to make
a ZCI, trim it, drill for leveling screws and be done? I just
don't know why 1/2 material would be that much better?

It is easy and yes, you're thinking too much. Been there and was amazed
at how easy it was, after I finally just did it instead of planning it.

I used quality 3/4 Finnish birch plywood, then used a planer to get it
down to pefect thickness.
http://picasaweb.google.com/mikeadid...earanceInsert#

Check out this video...

http://www.woodsmith.com/issues/146/...learance-dado-
insert

/
It's a pretty good technique.

I used 1/2" oak (Unisaw). 3/8" would have been a bit too thin, The 1/2"
needed only a few turns of leveling screws protruding from the bottom to sit
flush. *I'm using a piece of 1/2" BB ply right now to see if it last longer
than the oak (based on some past posts here) and so far so good!

Wouldn't solid warp? I wouldn't think hardwood would be a good choice
in any case.



No warpage, but I did have issues with splintering around the blade slot due
to the hammering from the teeth over time. This is why I'm hoping the BB ply
is more durable (needs to be more springy).