MikeL wrote:
this is a fairly new cabinet(s)(approx 2yrs) ....but under the kitchen
sink the bottom of the facing which includes both door openings is
pulling away or has come loose from where it was at one time stapled.
(?)
At the top of the facing I can see where it is stapled or brad nailed,
but the counter top hides these nails, so it doesn't matter.
What should I use to 're-fasten' the lower section of the facing. If I
shoot a brad or staple in it now, it would be noticeable, right? I
really don't know how it was originally put together. On the side of
the facing at the cabinets I pulled the staples out which pulled loose
from the facing, so now it will be flush. Should I somehow clamp it
and put carpenter wood caulk between the face and cabinet?
I would appreciate any suggestion!
thank you very much!

Assuming from the description it's a face frame cabinet (a fixed flat
piece on the front, that the door hinges are on, not doors on the sides
a la "european"), if the staples have pulled out, you'll likely be
unable to get anything manually driven to hold long or get them in w/o
splitting or at least "swelling" the sides.

I'd first fabricate some small glue blocks (1/2" or larger on a side
triangular (or square piece but the triangular is less obtrusive) 2-4"
long) to place in the inside corners. Once you have these ready, if you
can arrange a way to clamp have those ready as well, otherwise figure
out a way to make a brace against an opposite cabinet/wall/whatever to
wedge a piece into to hold the face frame in place. Now that you've got
stuff all ready, using yellow carpenters glue (or a white glue will also
work but I like the yellow aliphatics better) get a good glue on the
edge behind the face frame and then get the wedge in place to hold it.
Now, glue the square edges of the glue blocks and place them on the
inside corner at the bottom and spaced up over the loose area. Good
hand pressure and a little wiggle to seat them will be ok; they don't
have to be clamped to be effective.

Let dry at least a couple hours before removing your brace. Should be
good to go.

If the inside cabinet surfaces are slick (printed vinyl-coated or
finish, you'll want to scuff the surface where the glue blocks will go
w/ some 80-100 grit sandpaper first to get a good gluing surface.

If you were to have one or be able to borrow one, a brad or pin nailer
would let you put a couple of small fasteners thru the face in lieu of
the bracing. They would be small enough to not be difficult to fill the
holes to be nearly invisible. You could, of course, also drill some
small pilot holes and use a 4d or so smaller finish nail but be sure to
drill.

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