"Ecnerwal" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Woody wrote:

My comment was directed not to end-grain glue up, but to why you need to
"easily" separate the tenon (regardless of grain orientation) from the
bowl. Since I always finish the bottom of my bowls by turning a "rim" on
the foot and then making them slightly concave within the foot, any
waste wood from the tenon is turned away. They also set better than a
flat-bottomed bowl.

~Mark.

Well, for one thing, you can keep using the same faceplate block, rather
than wasting 1/8-1/4 inch of either block or stock on the parting. Given
that the main point is to not waste extra stock, not wasting extra stock
(even if it is less expensive stock than the bowl blanks) on faceplate
blocks is also good. As someone else mentioned, this is a technique from
the time Before Chucks - it also (if you have the time) works Better
than Chucks (I've certainly had things creep in my chuck, and that does
not happen with a waste block screwed to a faceplate, barring serious
disasters.)

If you have a chuck (or a BC chuck substitute, such as a disc with
grooves and hot glue) for reverse-chucking the bowl, turning the foot
when chucked in reverse is not impeded by half a sheet of paper. And a
whack with a blade and mallet is a lot faster than parting off.

true enough, but if you are turning aggressively it's easy to shear the
paper - much easier to use a thin waste block if your wood is really
valuable - 3/16 to 1/4 of scrap is plenty, glue it on for real, turn the
shape, then just reverse and turn it off - if you are using a wood worm or a
faceplate you need a bit more thickness, but getting little scraps of 2X4s
from a construction site is a cheap way to get wood - you don't need hard
maple or such for a waste block.

Or, you can hit the waste block with a chisel/hammer a bit on the waste side
of the glue line and split it off.

Paper works fine if you are gentle