View Single Post
  #3   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
Steve Turner Steve Turner is offline
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 607
Default Epoxy to fill knot voids at edge?

On 07/09/2010 08:00 AM, basilisk wrote:
On Fri, 9 Jul 2010 05:33:36 -0700 (PDT), manyirons wrote:

Hi all,

I've been building a captain's bed for my son out of some old
reclaimed pine. Due to the limited amount of wood I was not able to
avoid having some knots at the edge of a face frame. One of them is
big and really shabby, with quite large voids. I'd like to fill it,
and I'm thinking epoxy would be the best choice. I really don't like
the look of wood filler when it gets any bigger than a BB.

Assuming you agree that epoxy is a good choice, how can I apply it?
At the edge of the board it's going to just run out, so I need to
block it while it sets. The blocking must not stick to the epoxy. I
don't have sheets of teflon, other than teflon plumbing tape. Is
there something else (like HDPE or polyethylene, which I didn't try it
yet) that will work instead? Alternatively, if I let the expoxy get
proud of the surface can I sand it down and hope to apply water based
Minwax Varathane and not see the sanding marks? In that case I can
block it with a few strips of wood and just plane/sand them away.
Actually, I'm inclined to think that's the best approach, so I may try
it on some scrap while I await more brilliant feedback from you guys.

If there's no other choice I can cut the offending chunk away and glue
in a replacement, but it'll lose a lot of character and just plain
won't look as good as I know it can.

I hope all this makes sense. Thanks for your advice.

- Owen -


take a piece of scrap and rub it with wax and clamp it
over void, will pop off easily after the epoxy sets.

basilisk


That should work, but I wonder what the remaining area around the knot hole looks like
(perpendicular to the backer board). It's likely that the epoxy will "sink in" to the wood
and NOT be proud of the surface by the time it's cured, so what I like to do is build a
"dam" around the affected area with simple latex caulk, which allows you to overfill the
area with a "lake" of epoxy and plane or sand it down after it's cured. You're going to
need some pretty fine sandpaper if you don't want to see sanding marks after you're done;
lots of guys here claim that for wood they never go finer than 220 but for epoxy I think
you're going to need at least 400 (maybe 600) or you're going to see scratches...

--
"Our beer goes through thousands of quality Czechs every day."
(From a Shiner Bock billboard I saw in Austin some years ago)
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/