On Jun 16, 12:24*am, "SteveB" wrote:
"stryped" wrote in message

...
On Jun 15, 10:14 am, "SteveB" wrote:





"stryped" wrote One thing I noticed.....

My dad just bought a new gooseneck trailer. Looking at the welds, they
were uggly! No fishscales and irregular welds everywhere. I guess a
weld does nto need to be pretty to be strong.

One thing I wanted to ask. Your comment on moisture and 7018 got me
thinking. I dont have an oven to put my electrodes in. They are in one
of those screw on tubes you buy from the store. Could I by a cheap
toaster oven. ( I think that is what they are called). nd bake them in
that? It would take up a minimal amount of room. Can you make them
more than once?

I went to buy a small 10 x 12 trailer, and had to look at a dozen before I
found one that had acceptable welding. And it had two missing welds. The
production shops of today just push them out, but I don't understand it.. A
good weld takes just as long as a bad one. I think that when anyone gets
to
welding good, they leave a production shop and get a better job.

Make yourself a rod oven. One of those dead little tiny dorm fridges,
about
20" cubical is good. Something that seals good. Gut it except for the
insulation. Put a light bulb in it for heat. It's all you need. Other
things can be utilized, or you can buy a $1,000 rod oven, but you can find
a
derelict tiny fridge, and have enough left over for a used shop fridge,
some
beer, and a few months of cable from one of those tittie channels.

Steve

Visit my site athttp://cabgbypasssurgery.com

All errors, brain farts, misspelled words intentional because this
computer
is set to Spelchek French, and I can't get it to do any different.

Is that safe to leave unattended in a detached building?

Also this will not "fix" a rod with moisture will it? I thought the
temp had to get to 500 degrees or so?

reply: *It depends a lot on where you live. *If you live in a dry climate,
like I do in Southern Utah, or Las Vegas, humidity is not a problem, and the
rods will rarely soak up enough from the air for it ever to be a problem. *I
doubt that a 100w heat lamp would create much of a safety problem.

I really have no knowledge of how to "fix" rods. *It would seem that there
would be a danger of cracking or other failures of the flux by raising moist
rod to that temperature. *I would think that keeping them sealed, or at
least in a minimally heated environment would be light years better than
vascillating conditions of wet/dry and hot/cold.

Any welder who uses a volume of rods where moisture content and rod
condition is critical uses proper industry techniques to take care of costly
welding rod. *What we're talking about here for anything less than a
professional rod oven is just a poorboy handyman solution.

But it will work. *Thousands of pounds of wet old rods have been
successfully burned. *The first rods were bare with no coatings.

Steve

Visit my site athttp://cabgbypasssurgery.com

All errors, brain farts, misspelled words intentional because this computer
is set to Spelchek French, and I can't get it to do any different.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I liv ein the south with high humidity. My rods are in those screw
canisters. Actually, one canister is inside th ehouse and one in the
garage.

I bought some 7018 at Lowes several years ago with a gift card and
only needed a few rods at that time. The rest I put in the screw on
canister.

I was just wondering if I built a trailer or somethign important, if
it would be better to use 6011 or somethign less moisture "sensitive"?

Which leads me to another question: what is the tensile stregth of
mild steel you buy at the local metal supply store such as angle,
square tube, etc? If it is less than 70,0000 psi, why would you even
want to use a 70 series rod? (If the metal surrounding the weld is
weaker than the weld itself?