"Steve W." wrote in message
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cavelamb wrote:
RogerN wrote:
"Steve W." wrote in message
...
RogerN wrote:
"Steve W." wrote in message
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snip
Here is the cheapest way to paint your vehicle that I can think of.

http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint.html

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Steve W.
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That's awesome! A rolled on rustoleum paint job that looks good,
and in the
pictures 3 years later it still looks good. If I get enough energy
I may
have to get some rollers and paint my whole truck!

RogerN


Did you check out the 3D pictures he has on the site? Those are neat.

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Steve W.
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I tried to but lost my patients trying to get my eyes out of focus. I
get is maybe 60% there and then my eyes go back to seeing 2 flat
pictures.

Years ago (~30) I built a plastic model F-16 and used a slow drying
thinner with Testors enamel, don't remember if it was turpentine or
mineral spirits, anyway the paint flowed out smooth before drying and
it was the slickest looking paint I ever seen on a plastic model. I
like how the guy breaks all the rules, cheap paint, rolls on, cheap
thinner, and get results equal or better than most do with spray. Of
course you have to consider that Rustoleum doesn't have the color
availability of the automotive paints, but it would be fun to try a
metallic thinned with mineral spirits and applied with rollers. No
overspray, minimal need to mask, doesn't need ~10+ CFM compressor to
paint, if a respirator was still required it seems the filters would
last much longer.

RogerN




Nobody seems to have noticed how many times he sanded the entire car!

That job took at least a man-week.




True, BUT that isn't bad if you figure that your saving a LOT of money
and can DIY. Ever heard of the old car show staple the "20 coats of hand
rubbed lacquer" paint job. You do a TON of sanding on those as well.
Shoot on a thin coat, block out the car, another coat, sand. Repeat
these steps until you get a perfectly flat final paint coat. Then buff
the vehicle and enjoy the finish.

All of these new BC/CC paints make painting FAR faster and easier than
it was in the past. Still need a well prepped base but even that has
changed a LOT.

Used to be that you worked the metal, filed and sanded it smooth with
leading at the seams. Then wiped it down with solvent and shot on your
primer. Then blocked the primer and touched up any minor spots with spot
putty. Then put on another coat of primer, blocked that and then started
your color coats.

Now you beat the dents out until they are 1/8" or so, slather on a coat
of bondo, board and block the vehicle and then spray on some high build
primer. Once over with a D/A and base coat it. As long as the base is
even and full coverage you then just clean up any bugs/runs or crap.
Then clear coat it. Bake it and your done.

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Steve W.
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On the once over with the D/A sander, do they make D/A sanders for wet
sanding? What grit do you sand with, 320, 400?

RogerN