On Fri, 11 Jun 2010 03:59:19 +0100, Ted Frater
wrote:

Wes wrote:
"Artemus" wrote:

Obviously I'm doing something wrong here as my joints are brittle
and don't hold worth squat. I ground the ends of the blade to about
45 degrees and cleaned the ends with sandpaper. I put on plenty
of flux and wedged a small piece of silver solder in the scarf joint.


Silver solder (low silver content) or silver braze (high silver content)?

Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller


Ill come in here,
Ive silver brazed my band saw lades for 40 yrs.
as linked, the scarf joint needs to be minimum 3/8ths in long, you do
this scarfing on the top wheel of a band sander set up vertically.
Jig as also described, but bend the lower blade end up a little and he
top blade down a little.
You need to use a 50% if you can get it silver solder in foil form, 5
to 10/1000 in thick. cut a piece exactly to size, place between the 2
blade ends. mx up some easyflo flux paste preferrably s/steel grade,
apply arround the joint area. heat gently till the flux goes clear,
continue to heat till the joint goes a dull red under the flux and the
silver solder flows to wet the scarf area. allow to cool clowly.
Remove from jig, fftle up and grind both sides of blade so that the
thickness is the same overall, as you said .025 thick.
dont over tension the saw blade.
Hope this helps.
Ted. Dorset UK.

Here's a source of 56% silver solder in foil form:
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=5..._SILVER_SOLDER

This alloy flows freely at 1205F (652C), which is a dull red.

If your propane torch will get your workpiece to red heat, it is
sufficient. It's easy to overheat when silver brazing. Patience is
a good thing.

Get some "black flux" at a welding store. Other silver-brazing fluxes
will work, but black flux tolerates overheating which most beginners
do because they get impatient.