There are several approaches for replacing thru-hole components in areas
where damage has occurred to the PCB (lifted/missing solder pads, etc).
Often, the long length of new replacement components can be utilized by
poking the leads thru the (component side of board) original holes and
laying the component leads along the stripped/cleaned/tinned copper trace
(solder side of board), and soldered in place.
This method is usually as secure as the original mounting.

If there were severely charred damage at the original thru-holes, a Dremel
or similar small tool could be used to drill thru-holes in undamaged areas,
and make suitable adjustments.

The variety of existing mounting conditions is nearly infinite, in that
there could always be other factors involved in different types of board
assemblies.. nearby components, hardware, heatsinks, obstructions etc.

I'm sure there have probably been millions of repairs made, where
replacement component leads have simply been soldered to associated circuit
points, but the primary factor should always be safety.

Years ago, it was a fairly common practice/shortcut (but somewhat sloppy in
some cases) to clip the leads of a failed axial lead component above the
board surface, and then form small eyelets on the leads of the replacement
component, then solder the eyelets to the stubs of the old component.
This method could result in significant time reduction involved to complete
a repair, where a lot of disassembly would be required to access the solder
side of a board.

--
Cheers,
WB
..............


"William R. Walsh" wrote in message
...
Hi!

If the leads of the new/uncut replacement resistors aren't long
enough to bridge across the burned area, you may need to
implement a small custom circuit board to hold the resistor(s).

So...

If it were possible (meaning that the leads will reach), does that
mean that scraping off the solder mask from the other side of the
board and installing the new resistors there would be acceptable?

I can do that, but I am concerned about longevity...solder joints not
cracking, that sort of thing.