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Josepi[_5_] Josepi[_5_] is offline
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Default Shop Wall and Electric

Typically in residential wiring cables the ground wire is not included in
the conductor count. If you bought other type cable, for almost any other
application, the total number of conductors would be included in the count.
So yes, 12/3 NMD, NMW, would include a black, red, white plus a bare
conductor. If you bought a 12/3 cable in cab tire (the black rubber type
flexible stuff) it would include a black, white and green, or three other
colours depending on the application it was desigend for and the company
making it.

For ground wiring, I like to keep them as continuous as possible. I would
probably bring my incoming ground wire, very long from the cable, wrap it
around the box screw and then to each receptical in turn with one long,
uncut run, all from the cable. In lieu of that, to the box screw, then to a
wire nut (connector / Marrette) with two pigtails... one to each receptical
ground. If the wire is stranded you may want to crimp a lug on the end,
depending on how well the connector is made for that style of conductor.

I am not sure what the point of the four banger receptical would be. I have
installed this config in walls a few times and it is a mistake for most
applications. Most wall wart AC adapters cover too many recepticals, the six
banger receptical splitters cover the other two recepticals and you only get
use of two of the wired in ones, the current capacity is still only 15 amps
between the four and that limits what you can accidentally use at one time
and a few other reasons I can't think of right now. They do work well for
light draw test equipment (say electronics).

The number 12 wire may be a good idea if the extension cord has some length
to elimate voltage drop and be easier on higher powered equipment (saws,
routers etc..) but then you probably wouldn't want to share a bunch of
equipment like that on that quad box. Individual circuits are still the best
bet for when your grandson comes in and cuts that piece of wood or blows off
his dirty pants while you are jointing that piece of briar you just bought.

If you O/C protect the 12/3 cable with a 20 amp circuit then you need 20 amp
recepticals (have a T slot in the neutral side) and you are over fusing any
portable power tools you use. You may lose some of the human protection
afforded by the recommended max circuit capacity for the equipment.

In short, if you are going to open up your walls, spend the time and money
to put a few outlets around the room on individual circuits. Possibly one on
the ceiling for who-knows-what later. You don't have to use them. I wired
mine with one receptical per breaker..kept them high for over workbenches.
Any 240v circuits will have to be crawling through the attic or kept close
to the breaker panel or piped across the ceiling after.


BTW: There are defined standards for every current and voltage rating of
receptical so they can't be used in the wrong application. It is a good idea
to stick to these standards. I believe I have found charts on GE or Hubbel
websites with pics to identify each type.

Personally, If I were you, I would pay for a wiring inspection. You run all
your cables to the boxes and call them to come and then again after the
recepticals are installed and closed up. I would run the wire, install the
boxes and wire the recepticals and leave hanging for the rough in
inspection. (the wall finisher will not like the receptical wired in bu they
can be turned sideways and pushed through the holes before mounting the
drywall etc... Inform the inspector you are not too sure and have a close
look, He will advise some requirements, some tips, and some hints of how to
make it right or better, usually. After the first wave of inspection, hook
up your breakers in the panel. If nervous about that get some help, friend,
passing electrician etc... With inspection, you'll feel better, your home
insurance will feel better after a fire, and you just bought yourself some
protection against insurance, weasel out.




"Bill" wrote in message
...


Josephi - You read my mind. A pair of duplex outlets was what I had in mind
by "quad in a box". I honestly did not intend to be vague.

I had a question concerning the ground wires in wiring a quad box in a
branch circuit (both outlets to be run in series from the same hot).
Resources I have found have been vague. My understanding includes that a
wire attached to the ground terminal of the first duplex outlet would be
pigtailed with the upstream ground wire and a wire which is screwed to the
box, and that the wire attached to the ground terminal of the second duplex
outlet would be pigtailed with the downstream ground wire and a wire which
is screwed to the (metal) box. So the box would contain exactly 2
connectors and two wires would be screwed to the box, possibly at the same
place. Does this seem like the best way to you? I can think of equivalent
configurations, but this one seems good. Another possibility seems to be to
use a 3rd pigtail connecting the first two pigtail connections and connect
them to the box that way instead. Which way seems preferable to you?

BTW, using 12-3 cable for my run, every wire I mentioned connecting in the
paragraph above would be bare (right?).

Thank you!
Bill