In article
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Keefiedee wrote:
Am repairing window frames and sills where they have gone rotten with
the above excellent product (having already given it a good coat of
the Ronseal Wood Hardener) and need some tips on how to work with this
filler. Is there any trick to making it spread more evenly and
smoothing the surface? The instructions say it can be carved shaped
with a modelling knife after 20 minutes, but I imagine that
presupposes that one has managed to add the exactly right amount of
catalyst for it not to go off quicker or slower, which I have
considerable difficulty getting right. Also, there is a piece of
window beading which has rotted and affected the wood underneath it.
When I replace the beading, I will need to build up the wood
underneath it with filler, but presume that the filler will stick to
the new beading, so that if I ever have to replace the glass the
beading will be firmly attached to the window frame and I will have a
devil of a job getting it off. Any tips on how to stop that
happening?

It's basically very similar to car body filler which I tend to use for
this as it's cheaper - especially in larger amounts.
That can be shaped with a variety of tools when hard - files, sandpaper,
Sureform etc. As regards the beading if you make good the wood underneath
and let the filler harden then shape as needed before fitting the beading,
it won't stick to it. However, if you need to fill up to something you
don't want it to stick to use some PVC insulating tape.

These fillers ain't as long lasting as cutting out the rot and replacing
with new wood - about 5 years seems to be a good life.

--
*Marathon runners with bad footwear suffer the agony of defeat*

Dave Plowman London SW
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