Wes fired this volley in
:


I went looking for a picture of your mowers blades. Not a very nice
item to clamp on.

If yours look like the one I saw there is a very small flat between
the sharp end and the lift wings.

Which model so you have so I can look into this a bit more?


It is the Scag Turf Tiger 61".

But I have the jig made, and sharpened two sets of three blades today.

So far, I'm just using step-block and tee-nut hold-downs on the work, and
it's fine -- no chatter or motion.

Since that worked, I'm going to drill the jig block for some permanent
built-in clamps, so I don't have to fiddle with the silly step blocks
every time I flip a blade.

The jig ended up being pretty simple. It's just a tapered "saddle" for
the entire business end of the blade. It's got a rear edge stop milled
in so that the work can be forcefully pushed down into the stop by the
clamps.

The wing end didn't turn out to be as tricky as it looks. A narrow hold-
down just fits in the valley of the bend, and is just barely out of the
way enough so that the mill misses it as it goes by the tip.

Works good!

I did one set that had never been re-ground with excellent results, and
almost no re-balancing to do afterwards. (same depth of cut on both ends,
means the same amount of metal is left after).

Then I re-did a set that had been "licked with a file", "belt sanded", or
"touched up with an angle grinder", as recommended previously here on the
list.

Of course, following human nature, the person who had sharpened them only
worked out the dull part - the part furthest out to the tip - leaving the
blades slightly tapered along the bevels.

That took more passes to fix, and now there's a distinct "inset" of the
cutting edge from the old leading edge. But they're straight, sharp, and
again, they balanced almost perfectly on the first try.

LLoyd