On 2010-05-27, Doug Miller wrote:
In article , wrote:
(Doug Miller) wrote:
I need to put a 3/4" diameter hole in the front of my kitchen range hood.
Never mind why -- that's kind of involved. It's stainless steel, about 20ga,
and it would be a real PITA to dismount it and take it anywhere. I really need
to make the hole with the unit in place.
What's the best tool to use for that job?
Not my favorite tool but do you have a dremel tool? If so, draw a circle,
start grinding.
Yes, I do have a Dremel tool. Don't like the idea of turning that much metal
into powder, though, especially in my kitchen.
Don't worry -- it won't be powder -- it will be a lifetime
supply of little stainless steel needles which will embed in you (and
whoever else works in there) for the next few years as you clean out
from under various things near the work area. And -- unlike mild steel,
it won't dull with rust over the years. :-)
And -- since it is stainless -- you can't even use a magnet to
capture it as it is created.
Unibit (step drill) leaves fewer and larger chips. Easier to
clean up.
Chassis punch (*not* knockout punch for this) leaves only one
stainless steel (potato) chip (aside from those produced when you drill
for the pilot hole.
1/2" chassis punches use something like 1/4 or 5/16" draw screws
IIRC. Larger goes to 3/8", 1/2" and larger -- at least 1", though I'm
not sure where the breakover to the next size happens -- whether it is
before or after the 3/4" size. (I could go downstairs and see -- *if* I
happen to have a 3/4" one in my collection.) In any case, measure the
drawscrew size and go larger for the pilot hole, because the punched out
piece of metal takes on the shape of a Pringles pseudo potato chip which
causes the hole to tighten on the screw. And even if you have a newer
one with the "slugbuster" feature (chisel edges in the punch to cut the
punched out slug into two halves for easier removal from the die body) I
have doubts about this feature working in the SS you are making the hole
in. In any case, you would need a vise to hold the punch from turning
(after you had punched out the actual hole) to tighten it enough for the
slugbuster to work.
If you use the chassis punch, put masking tape (or perhaps duct
tape) over the area around the hole, and draw a big '+' though the
center of the hole before drilling the pilot. The chassis punch has
four straight lines scribed on the OD to line up with the plus to set the
location properly. The tape will also keep the pilot drill bit from
walking as you try to drill the pilot hole.
The hole size sounds like it may be for a pilot light to remind
you the fan in the hood is on, or perhaps an industrial switch to
control the fan.
Good Luck,
DoN.
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