On Wed, 19 May 2010 13:52:27 -0500, Ivan Vegvary wrote
(in message ):

Hi Bill,
I always read you posts in the rec.crafts.metalworking group.

Now you have me confused. All of your ideas are great! Don't know which
one to choose. BTW, many years ago I did do a glue-up knob and it lasted
only a few hours before splitting. At the time, I blamed on on the threaded
hole, thinking maybe I stressed the part. Obviously, glue-up is not the
strongest way to go.

Thanks again,

Ivan Vegvary



I will risk telling you something you may already know, in the belief that
maybe someone else might pick up a little nugget on gluing. It is not my
intention to cause anyone any insult.

The glued surfaces need a little truing up with a pass on a good flat sander
- but not too smooth. A "virgin" surface straight from the lumberyard planer
may look nice, but it may be *too* smooth, it may have a very slight surface
wax or other "protective" coating, or it may just have some schmutz that will
interfere with the glue.

for the white or yellow woodworking glue...
The glue needs to sorta soak in for a minute or two before clamping, as the
naked surface will tend to absorb some of the moisture in the glue. If the
work is clamped immediately after applying the glue, the wood will absorb
some of the moisture anyway, and the joint will be starved.

When the work is clamped, expect some squeeze-out, but don't deliberately
keep on tightening the clamps too much and squeeze out all the glue. The
joint will be starved. Leave the squeeze-out alone. Clean it off after the
glue has set up.

If using Gorilla (tm) glue or one of its cheaper (but equally good) clones,
the gluing action depends upon a bit of moisture in the work, to activate the
chemistry of the glue. A quick pass with a damp sponge on the candidate glued
surface is useful. Do not clamp this job too severely, or the joint will be
starved. The glue will foam a bit as it goes to work - just let it go and
dry. Clean it off after it has set.

Epoxies are excellent, but again the wood has to be very clean and dry, and
lightly sanded to insure removal of the oxidized and too-slick surface. The
epoxy has to be throughly mixed for a minimum of a minute and two minutes is
better. Clamp securely, but again, do not starve the joint.

Respectfully submitted,
tom koehler


--
I will find a way or make one.