Pete C. wrote:
Bob F wrote:
Pete C. wrote:
Bob F wrote:
Pete C. wrote:
Bob F wrote:
Pete C. wrote:
You misspelled "minutes".
No, I did not. I cooked extensively on electric stoves for about
30 years, so I'm well aware of their response times. Ten seconds
is about the maximum you need to hold the pan off the burner, and
indeed you don't even have to hole it entirely off, just lifting
the handle to have the pan at a slight angle and not in direct
contact with most of the burner is sufficient.
You must have a magic electric stove. Mine takes at least 2 minutes
before the burner cools enough to not continue boiling over a pot.
Perhaps I'm the magic element, since I have never had that issue on
at least a half dozen different electric ranges I have cooked
extensively on.

As far as cost, that depends on your local rates. Some places pay 4
or more time as much for electricity as others. Gas for heating is
probably half the cost of electric heating here, as determined by
converting from electric to gas.
Electric resistive heating, or electric heat pump? A heat pump is
3-4X the efficiency of electric resistive heating. I drastically
cut my heating costs when I replaced electric resistive with
electric heat pump.
You are right about heat pumps. The capital costs are considerable,
and depending on your situation, the outdoor noise may be a problem
with neighbors, but they certain will compete with gas for energy
cost if it's not too cold where you live.
Well, noise isn't a consideration since there is an A/C condenser
outside anyway since much of the year is cooling season. The A/C or
heatpump condenser also faces my shop which is some 80' away from the
house. The next neighbor is another 100' or so and that side of their
house has no windows.

As for capital costs, I just installed this new 4T heat pump along
with matching air handler for a total cost of $3,750 which qualifies
as pretty damned cheap in my book. As for efficiency, my monitoring
indicates that it works well down to about 28F outdoor temp, and north
TX doesn't get a lot of days below 28F. It was also a good jump in
efficiency vs. the old A/C, so there is savings in the cooling months
as well.
28F is really warm winter weather in much of the USA.

Not N. TX. for the more northern locations with more cold days and
colder temps on those days, you just switch to a ground source heat pump
instead of an air source one. Here with few really cold days, the cost
of using the backup heat those days is minimal and the cost premium to
go ground source isn't worth it.

Where I live in Seattle, A/C is unnecessary for a well insulated house. Yes, it
gets warm inside several days a year but not bad if I vent it good in the
morning, and then close it up to keep out the heat.

When I lived in CT, A/C wasn't needed much on a reasonably insulated,
shaded house, but a dehumidifier definitely was. Even here in TX, the
"neutral" month or so between heating and cooling seasons tends to need
a dehumidifier. I hate humid.

If you hate humidity, stay away from Bama. When I lived out in the
middle of the Pacific ocean, the humidity wasn't as bad as my home.

TDD