Ron wrote in message
...
On 12/05/2010 21:40, Teodor Väänänen wrote:
Jeff Liebermann wrote On 2010-05-12 21:38:
On Tue, 11 May 2010 19:41:59 GMT, (Mark Zenier)
wrote:
For cable assemblies, I've found that nothing beats a Sunbeam toaster.
Turns itself off, too. You don't have to put it down into the slot,
just hold it over the top.
Isn't there an interlock in the toaster that checks if there's a slab
of toast inside before it will turn on? I'm not sure I want to insert
a slice of bread for every shrink tube joint.
The trick with lighters is to keep the shrink about 1 1/2 to 2 inches
above the top of the flame.
I always manage to char the shrink tube joint when I do it that way.
It's not the heat that's causing the blackening. It's that the
burning ligher fluid is too low in temperature for complete combustion
and therefore dumps plenty of soot on the shrink tube. You can
demonstrate it for yourself by burning a lighter under a plate of
glass. The distance doesn't matter. You'll always get plenty of
soot.
If you must use a flame, use a propane torch. Instead of 2 inches,
about 1-2 ft is about right. Don't hold onto the wire as you're
likely to burn yourself. Work very quickly and be prepared to react
if the wire or workbench catches fire.
My favorite method for shrinking shrink tubing is either ye olde lighter
at 1 to 2 " distance, or the part of your soldering iron the tip fits
into. Keep the heat source in motion, and no longer than is necessary
for good shrinkage.
Also, have spare bits and pieces to practice on, it can take a bit to
get the hang of a new soldering iron or station. I don't recommend the
lighter trick for anything else than small jobs, prototypes or repairs.
Just my $.02 worth.
/Teo.
Geeezus, all this waffle - one huge thread to avoid buying a heat gun!
A cheap one will do, fifteen quid, that`s twenty bucks, and you can use
it for other stuff like paint stripping.
Why **** about with hairdryers, dodgy modified soldering irons or gas
lighters when you can get the proper tool for so little money?
Ron(UK)
If you do a lot of desoldering/salvaging with one I would recommend one that
uses a ceramic matrix for the heater, the cheap ones use mica. At the moment
of pulling an IC from the board , with nozzle necessarily close to other
side, it often bangs the nozzle. My heatgun probably done a few hundred
hours , if not a thousand , over 20 years, is a Bosch with ceramic so an
easy job to repair breaks in the element with some ex-Nicad battery strip
crimped over the broken ends.
--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://diverse.4mg.com/index.htm