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saber850 saber850 is offline
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Default LCD Desktop Monitor Fading to White, then Black

On May 9, 11:00*pm, "Dav.p." wrote:
one did, while the "bad" monitor works fine (at least, so far). *So


you say the bad mon. with the good power board i think...

I'm confident that the problem is from the power board, and given this


ok, 1-0 for me... *
(ah it's a soccer score sorry..)

both power boards to examine, I also noticed that the C110 and C111
caps were replaced by Samsung when I sent the monitor in for repair


from what you noticed? The shining solderings?

earlier this year (the last month of its warranty). *I'll get the
specs of all caps today, find corresponding parts on DigiKey, and post
back here for confirmation.


i think is not so vital to find the specs, only take uF and V and order a good brand of low esr type. (105c)

I will research this topic on the web, but are the Polymer caps
entirely superior to electrolyte ones? *Are there drawbacks to polymer
caps?


As above i'm not an expert at all but i think.. with a good brand like Sanyo, Rubycon, Panasonic
etc, you can go quiet and live life in peace for at least 3-4 years intense-use,
it's a good idea replace all area's caps, to be sure.. like i said it's safer and instructive
to test the 5v line output for instability, or the 12v if 5v is stable.. but it is no so safe whitout
precautions so it's up to you, if the boards stays screwed on the back and face outside is more
safe.


Yes, I'm confident the the problem is w/ the power board, since that's
the only thing that changed, and the problem followed it. The monitor
w/ the power board from the non-malfunctioning monitor has been
functioning properly for 24 hours.

There are three reasons that I suspect the C110 and C111 caps were
replaced. The first reason is that all caps across both power boards
except those two have a hand-drawn black mark (line on the radius) on
top. Those two have slightly shinier solder. And there are small
scratches on the underside of the PCB around those caps' pins.

As for testing the 5V or 12V lines, that's not easy because the boards
are not screwed down. There is a metal plate which sandwiches these
boards to the back of the panel, and which provides the mounting
point.