Thread: Adding air
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jamesgangnc[_3_] jamesgangnc[_3_] is offline
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Default Adding air

On Apr 16, 8:09*am, stryped wrote:
On Apr 15, 10:20*pm, wrote:





On Thu, 15 Apr 2010 12:49:31 -0700 (PDT), stryped
wrote:


Are you planning on installing this yourself, do you have a buddy in
the trade or are you just calling someone?
Other choices are the package unit on the ground with ductwork similar
to the split system. This can be DIY since you are just supplying the
ducts and the power. It comes fully charged and ready to go in that
"package", or the big mini-split which may not be the best air mover
but it is the easiest to do and they sell DIY setups for the mini.
Move the air with some fans.- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


I will be doing this myself. I found a guy that has a Bryant 2 ton
2005 model that will deliver it for 500 dollars. How much shoudl I
expect to pay in ductwork?


If you can get an HVAC supplier to sell you the stuff it is certainly
less than $100 but that can be hard to do. They really like to protect
their commercial customers.
To do it right you need a few tools, a couple sheets of duct board, a
box of flex duct, a roll of silver tape (not duct tape) and some
fittings.
The coolest tool for working with duct board is the cutter that makes
a "V" shaped groove without breaking the outer paper for a perfectly
mitered corner you don't have to seal. You need a wiper to seal down
the tape, they might give you one but it is a dollar deal.
The best way to seal the joints where duct board meets flex duct is
mastic (gooey stuff that hardens)
You need metal collars for that joint and metal boots for the duct
grilles on the other end. Keep the flex duct tight and support it so
it doesn't sag. It will perform virtually as well as metal duct.
You can usually size the ducts based on the size of the hole in the
unit and be OK. Do a little geometry and get the round flex ducts to
equal or exceed the sq/in of the duct you build.
As short as the ducts are it is not a huge problem if you are a little
off but don't choke it.


I have a duct wheel I can run the numbers if you want to actually
engineer this (a rotary slide rule deal).
.


Would you go outside the building or inside?

One thing I am having trouble invisioning is how the supply and return
air both are positioned on the unit? I mean when I drive down the road
and look at houses with a package unit, all I see is a "metal square"
going into a crawlspace. On metal businesses I see one square duct
going up the side of the building into the roof. Are both the supply
and return lines in that one duct?

I would look at my house but it has a split system.

I also found a guy selling split systems. He said the coolant is still
in the condensor like the factory. ALl that is required is brazing a
copper line from the condensor to the evaporator. It seems there are
alot of these air units around.

The package unti I qoted earlier sounds like it was a good deal. WOuld
2 tons be enough for a 30x30x10?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


The ducts are side by side on your typical package unit. If you go
under the crawl on a house that has one you'll see. Typically a
couple big pieces of flex run from there. If you are putting a
package unit against the side of your garage you could pretty much
butt a return vent right up against the unit. You would still need a
log piece of square duct to get to the attic from the outlet. That'll
be $100 or so from a sheet metal shop that specializes in duct work.

The refreigerant is inside the condensor but to install it properly
you braze or solder the lines, pull a vacuum on the lines and
evaporator. See if it holds to check for leaks. Then open the vavles
on the compressor to let the refrigerant inot the rest of the system.
A brand new system will have enough charge for an evaporator and x
feet of line. A used systemor longer line will require you to add
refreigerant.

The trick to dealing with hvac supply houses is to do your research
ahead of time. You go in and know what you're asking for they will
usually not question you. As long as it's not systems. You need a
certificate and in most states a contractors license to buy a system.
But if all you're after is duct work or boots or somethingthey won't
hassle you. Also good to go middle of the day. Most ofthe pros hit
them first thing in the morning to get ready for a job. You want to
visit when they are not busy.