View Single Post
  #5   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
[email protected][_2_] norminn@earthlink.net[_2_] is offline
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,418
Default Attaching cedar baseboard to drywall [problem]

dadiOH wrote:
Nick Aron wrote:
Hello All,

I have a problem with some cedar baseboard. We got it straight from a
mill. It took us 2 days to sand and tint 30 meters of it.

The problem is that the wood either came with or has developed a
slight bend. The bends range in all directions and in almost all
pieces (a couple are straight).

The main issue I have right now is that these are not going into
concrete walls like the rest of my house they are going into drywall
so I acquired a tube of a no nails type of glue. The problem is though
that I can't force the baseboard into the correct position without
securing it with something.

Here are some options i've thinking about:

- Nail some finishing nails to the bottom rail that runs on the floor
(1/4" is used up by the floor though) and use the glue.

- Nail long steel nails through the drywall and into the concrete wall
behind it (possible on 3 walls and all the stairs) ofcourse glue would
be applied as well.

- Glue a section of the baseboard. Leave it for a couple hours and
then come back and glue the next part, etc. This could potentially
take an eternity.

Any other suggestions?

Thanks in advance, Nick


Nails. Or screws. Into the same things the drywall is fastened to... the
sole plate (at the bottom) and studs. If there is a slight gap at the top
of the baseboard after nailing, caulk it and paint same color as wall.
There most likely *will* be gaps because drywalls aren't straight due to the
humps at joints.

You could use molly bolts - they go through the drywall and expand behind
it - but it would be a horrendous and unnecessary task.


I agree...but what is not stated is the amount of variance from
"straight". Sometimes it is the wall that is out of straight. Typical
fix for gaps is to caulk and paint along top edge. The lumber could
have been straightened by dampening the concave side and then clamping
or weighting it until it dried. Might still work, but with sealer
already applied I would have doubts. Angling nails slightly will help
keep it from pulling away from the wall over time.