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DerbyDad03 DerbyDad03 is offline
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Default Sheet rock screws: fine vs coarse thread?

On Apr 13, 10:21*pm, Stuart Wheaton wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Apr 13, 5:37 pm, Stuart Wheaton wrote:
Ed Huntress wrote:
"Existential Angst" wrote in message
...
Awl --
Purpose? *Applications?
The *minor diameter of the fine thread (under 2") appears to be about .115
(mebbe less, due to inadequate penetration of caliper edge), and .090 on
the coarse. *Ergo, more "grab" with the coarse.
I'm guessing the following:
Coarse thread is for sheet rock on metal studs -- more grab on studs..
* Altho framing screws, which afaik are only for metal stud to metal stud,
also come in coarse and fine thread, so this may muddy this particular
logic. * Mebbe for different gauges of metal studs? *I've seen some much
heavier than others.
Coarse thread for particle board et al.
Fine thread for hardwood.
Opinions?
The Gougeon Brothers of sailboat fame did tests of coarse- versus
fine-thread screws in wood back in the '60s. Coarse-thread won. Sheet metal
screws beat wood screws in wood every time. That was before sheet rock
screws.
www.mcFeelys.com


About any screw you might want, and square drive is the ONLY option as
far as I'm concerned!


Stuart- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


"square drive is the ONLY option as far as I'm concerned!"


Unless you think you might find yourself with the need to disassemble
what you've put together and there's a danger of no (or not enough)
square drive bits being available.


I'm often involved in set-up and tear downs for events where lots of
dry wall screws are used. You can *always* find a screw gun, usually
with a # 2 phillips bit already installed, within arm's reach. Try
locating a square drive bit - and of the right size - when something
needs to fixed/adjusted with moment's notice.


When it comes to volunteer events like these, you want to go with the
most common fasteners so that anyone (and everyone) can pitch in. # 2
phillips screws are still the most common and I don't see that
changing any time soon - even if square drives are better.


The problem you mention is easily solved by having a few packages of #2
square drive bits. *I work in Theatre, we put up and tear down all the
time, and there is NO comparison, esp if the head has some paint in it.
* Also, if a square drive bit becomes slightly worn, it can usually be
re-conditioned enough to finish the show, just by lightly tapping it on
a running belt sander, you can't do that with a phillips. *I have known
places that used one type of fastener for all permanent inventory, and
the other fastener for stuff that is meant to last just for the show.
then if only one driver type is on the deck at strike, the good stuff
gets saved.

BTW, screws are a single use item. *The biggest source of frustration is
trying to save and re-use screws.




1 - "The problem you mention is easily solved by having a few packages
of #2 square drive bits..."

2 - "BTW, screws are a single use item"

1 - Not really and 2 - not in all cases.

At the events that I'm talking about, the equipment that is used by
the competitors require - by rule - upwards of 40 # 2 Philips head dry
wall screws. Therefore, that is the bit that everyone has in their
screw guns. Square drive screws are not an an option in the
competitor's equipment. The screws for the competitor's equipment
don't get stressed or torqued very tight, so they are used over and
over and over again with no damage. The only time they get replaced is
when they get lost or rusty.

Now, as for the set up and tear down portions of the events, the
organizers opt for # 2 Philips head screws of various types and sizes
so that we're not constantly looking for and changing bits depending
on whether we're working on the competitor's equipment or the event
infrastructure. I know that these screws are single use items, but
there are many "helpers" who don't.

At one point I snuck in a bunch of those Deckmate screws that took the
square tip Phillips bits. I used them for the heavier construction
parts of the set up. Talk about Phillips bit chatter when other people
tried to take apart the stuff I had built! I was promptly told to
stick with standard # 2 Phillips in the future.