"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
...
Currently the NYW is running a rerun of Norm making a small, 32" diameter,
table from recycled pine.

The stock for the table top comes from a piece of 12" wide barn siding,
from which three (3), 36" long pieces were cut to make the top glue-up.

So far so good; however, as would be expected, the board was cupped.

Norm's solution was to make a kerf cut on the concave side of each board
about 2/3-3/4 thru the board.

That works for me with the following caveat:

When the top is finally glued up and cut to size, the kerf cut will still
be visible.

Norm proceeded to surface the boards by pressing down on the feed rollers
to flatten the board while going thru the planer.

Next these boards were jointed, and biscuits were added prior to the glue
up.

While the top was in the clamps with the glue still wet, Norm proceeded to
fill the kerf cuts with an epoxy putty to strengthen and stabilize the top
blank.

Now comes the bone.

Trying to machine these boards before the kerf is filled and allowed to
solidify, is like trying to machine a flexible piece of "stuff".

How he managed not to close the kerf cuts with the glue-up in the clamps,
I'll never know.

OTOH, if each individual board had been clamped to a flat surface or even
curved cauls that would force the kerf cut open, much like a keystone or
trapezoidal cut, then filled with epoxy putty and allowed to cure, you end
up with a stable board which makes future machining easier.


Ah, So there's the real reason for this thread... Mr. Hodgett wants to push
EPOXY! ; )
Seemed like a valid bone to pick though.



As far as the final kerf cut being visible in the table edge is concerned,
Norm used a poly/stain product which, IMHO, is basically the same as
paint, so maybe he was able to hide the epoxy in the kerf.

BTW, forgot to mention, need some tape to dam up the ends of the kerf cuts
and prevent the putty from oozing out.

OK, I've picked the bone.

Off the box.

Lew