I can't afford to buy them all. Could a person buy a 3 hp plunge like
a Dewalt or Bosch and use it for everything? What is the drawback of a
plunge in a router table? Is there a router that is a good all around?

Like all tools, it depends upon what you want to do with them. A 3HP router
will allow you to do brute things quickly, but is very heavy if you take it off
the router table.

If you do both, then go with something like a Porter Cable 690 "kit," or
whatever their new number is. It allows you a lot of flexibility for several
reasons:


1. It's the industry standrd, so virtually every accessory made for a router is
made to fit it first.

2. The motor is removable, so you can get a great many attachements as needed.

3. It is built to last for generations.

Here is what I've done: I've gotten a few of their 1001 bases, which run maybe
$10, and kept those permantently on my router table built into my table saw
extension and a mortising jig). I have a plunge routing base and a D handle
base for hand work.

There is never a problem wiht hogging off large abounts of wood with intricate
cuts because you don't do that with a router under 3 HP (this is 1 1/2 I
think). I've done curly maple frame and panel doors with it. You do it in
smaller increments, but in the end, that is safer no matter what size router
you have (that huge frame bit is scary no matter what is spinning it) so it's
always safer to take it in very small amounts, and you have less of a chance
for tearout.

People seem to love the idea of a plunge router ina router table, with a fine
adjustment knob doing micro adjustments. I never found the need. The PC screw
in and out with ease, in very small amounts. Frankly, if you need that much
precision with outside help, I could see getting that JessEm router lift, or
getting the PC 693 (that's the plunge base I mentioned before) and getting a
Router Raizer. Someone I know got one and said it worked great, and it's a lot
cheaper.

If you are a production shop it's a different story of course.