On Mar 17, 8:26 pm, Larry Jaques wrote:

The new plywoods (OK... this is a working theory between me and
another finishing wonk) have something different about their
manufacture that make it change the color of the wood after it is
colored and sealed.

Isn't it just the oxidation of both the finish and the wood
underneath?

I don't think so. The level of oxidation in today's better finishes
is almost nil when inside in regular light. They are high resin,
abrasion resistant, and they even have a bit of UV resistance built in
now due to the fact that so many folks have these halogen can or track
lights that fade finishes.

There is something going on. I didn't see that kind of fading when we
used Georgia Pacific or similar plywood. Now even some of their stuff
is sold under another name, but it is Chinaply. It is difficult for
me to get the good plywood here as the local suppliers (all of 2)
don't want to sell to someone that buys two sheets for end panels.
20, yes; 2, no.

Besides, if that was the case, the rails, stiles, doors, drawer
fronts, etc., would all discolor as well. The odd piece out is the
plywood sides, and the only difference between the wood and the
plywood is the stinky glue.

The only thing I can think of is the glue outgassing. I have had
finishes compromised by outgassing before. It is no different than
coating a piece of "case hardened" wood. I made some walnut display
cases for a client, and found that out the hard way. Dry on the
outside, still too wet on the inside (my ligno lied as did my
supplier) as to the moisture. I finished the solid walnut cases, and
it took a week before the damage showed up.


So when I dye (don't use stain much anymore as I can't spray it! )

Better. When the last client asked me to stain the cabinet I built
for them, I cringed. Once when they asked, the second time when they
handed me the PolyShades. The solids went after the grain, darkening
it horribly, and leaving the plain hickory face much lighter.

Now that I don't understand. Why would you compromise your work with
an inferior product? I am no prima donna and I am in this to make
money. But I won't do anything that I know will embarrass me or my
company. Polyshades = NO. Olympic products of any sort = NO. We
agree up front what the parameters are, and that includes finishes and
protocols. I don't like any loose ends, and I won't get trapped into
using some crap off the shelf at Home Depot.

And how
do you match oak iron-on tape to hickory with Poly**** all over it and
no extra money for color work?

I got nothing. I don't know. See above. I usually cheerily reply,
"well, let me work up a price and put it in writing and I will let you
know how much that will be."

OK, but things like that have to be lit well or they look black.
The darker woods in kitchens lit with 4kW of lamps look pretty cool,
but at what cost?

You are obviously thinking much darker than me. Think a traditional,
medium dark mahogany.

All that light costs money to operate and it
bleaches the wood in the process.

Not my money, and these folks can afford it. Additionally, stains
fade quite slowly, and provide excellent UV resistance. Behlen's
Solalux is better than stain (except the solids and heavy opaques) as
it has UV built into it. That's how I started using it on doors.

As a topper, I use a UV resistant conversion lacquer that wears like
iron, and is extremely durable. My own very successful "roof test" of
the Behlen's/conversion lacquer for outside use convinced me that it
was perfect for inside as well.

They had greenish black marble counters in their home, and it looked great. Very
classy, and had a very stately look to it. Not my choice for the kitchen, but it wasn't my house, either.

That does sound classy. I love this marble:

Link?

Robert