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JIMMIE JIMMIE is offline
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Default How to fix my iron railings?

On Mar 9, 1:06*am, "Steve B" wrote:
"Nil" wrote in message

...



The steps leading up to my front door have iron railings on them,
embedded directly into the steps. Over time, the iron has rusted and
the railings are all breaking off at ground level. This has been
hastened by the ice melter that I've used on the steps the past couple
of years, which I've discovered is VERY corrosive to metal (it also ate
a screwdriver I had used to break up chunks of the stuff.)


So, here's what state it's in right now:


http://home.comcast.net/~esionder/temp/rail1.jpg


http://home.comcast.net/~esionder/temp/rail2.jpg


I plan to get the railings repaired by having a metal shop weld
extensions onto the legs. What's a "proper" or better way to reattach
them to the steps?


Let me say this about that. *Yes, no, definitely, maybe, and I don't know.

I used to fix just such things, being an ex steel erection contractor. *I
fixed this type of stuff for 275 apartment complexes.

What has happened is that the water has stood in and around this long enough
to rust it out. *Not a lot you can do about that unless you want to core
drill out the stubs, and then make the Pourstone footer higher to keep it
out of the water. *But then, you would have to weld additions on, and fill
them from the inside, and then, they would probably just rot off at the base
again.

What I would do: *The metal is probably rusted out up a ways from the broken
off base. *I'd cut about six inches off of that leg, weld a fresh piece of
.120" square tubing on to what's there so as to be close as you can have it
fit onto the plates and give you desired height. *Then cut the other trash
stuff off flush with the deck. *Clean the holes out best you can and fill
flush with Pourstone. *(hydraulic cement) *Then put a 4" square 1/4" plate
on the deck so as to center it over the hole. *These are available at
wrought iron supply places, or over the Internet. *If you don't know where,
Google ornamental metal suppliers. *A big one in Houston and LA. *Probably
one close to you, or cut your own.

Figure your height. *If you did it right, you should come pretty close. *If
you are high, cut some off. *Weld the legs to the plate, and leave a weep
hole so water going in the inside has a way to seep out. *It will look bad,
but will lengthen the life of the post. *Get it plumb and level. *Paint
using a cardboard mask.

Optional plate fasteners: Nail-ins (not suggested, as they tend to weaken
and pull out), Red Heads, sleeve anchors, or wedge concrete fasteners.
Drill holes deeper than you need so you don't have a lot of threads sticking
up. *When you pound the rod down in the hole, be sure to put washer and nut
on it flush to the top so you don't booger up the threads, or remove it if
it mushrooms. *Get all of them down to tight with light taps from a hammer,
then tighten them up.

$200 if I was to do this repair in today's market. *Less if you can weld and
have RotoHammer and tools.

Steve

There you go.


Yeah,bolting it to a flange as others have suggested is just all
wrong. Ive seen the results too many times. Its a code violation in a
lot of places, maybe all. The apt I used to live in had to tear them
all out after installing them that way. You can fasten them using
brackets if the top rails are secured at each end of the rail. This
often isn't the case with steps.

Jimmie