On Mar 7, 9:05*am, Mike Reed wrote:
On Mar 7, 10:19*am, Mike Reed wrote:



On Mar 7, 9:23*am, "Ralph Mowery" wrote:

"Mike Reed" wrote in message

....

Ok, I pulled out the receptacle and disconnected the line wires to
test them the hot/neutral voltage is ~11V, probably the close-wire
effect (mentioned elswhere) there.
Neutral/ground is zero, and hot/ground is 124V, just like working
receptacles.
So now I guess I check to see if the breaker is bad? Obviously the
breaker box poles would be ok since all the other circuits on that
side are working fine, right?

If you have a very low voltage from the hot to neutral and 124 volts form
the hot to ground, I would look for an open neutral. *If you cut the breaker
off and check the resistance between the neutral and ground you may find
that open. *There should be a very low (almost zero) resistance between the
two. *One guess is there are several recepticals on that circuit and atleast
one is between that one and the breaker box. *Try finding all of them and
plugging a lamp into both sockets, one at a time. *Chances are you will find
power on one socket and not the other. *A jumper between the screws can burn
out between the two.

I like the lamp idea. On it.

So, going from the GFI outlet closest to the breaker (next room), it
was the only one working. I pulled the receptacle from the next one
and examined it. Loose wire in there with some black from a flash/
burn. I tightened it up, restored power, and everything works. I'm
replacing the receptacle right now (same 20A type).

Thanks for the help everyone.

Mike-

When you replace the receptacle, wire it up using the pigtail
method.

The black from the "supply" and the black to downstream loads should
be wire nutted together along with a short (pigtail) black wire that
supplies the local receptacle.
Do the same with the neutrals.

Wiring up a receptacle in this manner will keep the rest of the
circuit working even if a "local" device fails.

cheers
Bob