"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...

You might be interested in a trial I did:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/2768312...7623384305382/

It is nothing original or definitive, I just wanted to know how things
behaved in my hands. Also I did not consider prices but these are easy
to
find out.

Great test. It helps rule out lots of products quickly and shows
which ones work under the nastiest conditions. That's salt and water
in your liquid cups, right?

And hydrochloric acid :-) That kind of shortens the duration of the trial...

I'd like to see how the expensive metal polishes (Everbrite and
Sharkskin), fare in this kind of test, too.


In a nutshell: Nothing beat LPS3.

Is it still available?

http://www.lpslabs.com/product_pg/co...n_pg/lps3.html

I have a 10 year old can on the shelf. I only use it if I find a nice piece
of steel which I intend to use in a distant future and don't want it to rust
meanwhile. Otherwise it is a pain as it is so sticky.


I was puzzled about the behaviour of WD40.

The rust probably combined with one of the additives, perhaps?

That is what I thought. I wondered what the additive was though. The colour
of the rust notwithstanding, the protection WD40 offered was better than
some others. BTW at the end of the test there was a greasy layer on all the
spray compounds: G96, T9, WD40 and LPS3.

There is a tendency for shop workers, particularly woodworkers to recommend
paste wax as a rust protectant for unpainted surfaces of machine tools. In
this test it was shown to be no better than control. This is consistent with
other literatu Flexner, who wrote book on wood finishing, maintains that
wax does not pose any significant barrier to water or water vapour when
applied to wood. There is no reason why it should behave differently on
metal.

BTW WD40 is the recommended cleaning and oiling agent for VZ firearms :

http://www.czub.cz/navody/CZ_858_Tactical.pdf

(page 15)

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC