If you run AC in PVC, it has to be electrical (grey) PVC.

If you want to follow the "rules" on coaxial, it should be 12" away
from AC. If it has to cross AC it should cross at 90 degrre angle


On Mon, 01 Mar 2010 20:01:11 -0500, Nate Nagel
wrote:

Hi again,

After mulling over the work that needs to be done upstairs in my house,
I am thinking that I may just cut an access hole in one wall and try to
put in some PVC from the basement to the attic. I think that if I do it
right I can put two in with only cutting one wall in an area that needs
some repair anyway. One sleeve for two AC power circuits and the other
for cable TV, phone, and whatever other low voltage stuff I might want
in the future. If I'm doing that, I might as well go ahead and run
some cables up there to provide cable TV and phone in all the bedrooms
now, while I'm in the groove. (even though I don't have home phone
service, still, it'd look nice when I go to sell the place.)

Question #1. I ASSumed I would use PVC because then I could put one
length 7' or so up from the basement, glue on a coupling and another 7'
length, repeat. Would steel be desirable from a shielding standpoint,
or doesn't it really matter? These will probably be in the same stud
bay, out of necessity (most of the stud bays in the middle wall of my
house have ductwork in them, so my options are limited.)

Question #2. In two of the upstairs bedrooms I am using old .040" solid
brass switch plates. I know that I can buy new repro blank plates to
match. Should I do that, and just drill a hole for the cable connector
thing? Or will the fact that the plate is metal cause an issue, and I
should get one with a Decora hole and use a plastic insert with the
cable connection in that? Or does it make no darn difference whatsoever?

thanks

Nate