View Single Post
  #12   Report Post  
Posted to alt.binaries.schematics.electronic
John Fields John Fields is offline
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 2,022
Default My lab (from sed)

On Mon, 8 Feb 2010 19:24:13 -0500, "Martin Riddle"
wrote:



"Jim Thompson" wrote in
message ...
On Mon, 08 Feb 2010 10:51:45 -0600, John Fields
wrote:

On Mon, 08 Feb 2010 01:09:12 -0800, Fred Abse
wrote:

On Sun, 07 Feb 2010 19:05:02 -0600, John Fields wrote:

On Sun, 07 Feb 2010 08:05:45 -0800, Fred Abse
wrote:

KERRIST!

That carpet's clean. How to you get the entangled wire offcuts out?

---
What are "offcuts"?

JF

You joshing me?

Bits of wire trimmed off components that seem to get everywhere.

---
I mostly work barefoot and in PJ's, so I'm careful about what falls on
the floor.

JF


I often work in just my socks, but regular clothes :-) I meticulously
save any clips of consequential length (and the Teflon wire scraps),
to use as jumpers on my bread-boarding system:

http://analog-innovations.com/SED/BreadBoard.jpg

...Jim Thompson
--



Being a Spice guy, I wouldn't have thought you did much bread boarding.

If anyone knows a good source for those double sided perf boards (power
planes top/bottom and isolated holes, like Jim's pic, over the entire
board), anti up. Those seem to be hard to find at a good price. perfect
for wirewraping.

Here's the Vectors series, I think. As usual, Digikey thinks they are
made of gold
http://media.digikey.com/pdf/Data%20Sheets/Vector%20PDFs/Eurocard%20Prototyping%20Boards.pdf


---
For fairly high-speed (~100MHz) prototypes which need double-sided
copper, I like to use Vector's 169P44C2 cut down as needed, their T44
terminals to carry parts on one side and wiring on the other, and a 1/8"
drill to _judiciously_ remove the copper from around the holes where the
terminals need to be pressed in and connect to neither the power nor the
ground plane.

I've used their pad-cutting tool and found it to be absolutely worthless
after a couple of cuts, so I now use a vanilla 1/8" drill bit, in a
drill press, with the depth of cut set to just barely remove a 1/8"
diameter disk of copper around the isolated hole.

I've got some photos, somewhere, which illustrate the concept and, if
you're interested, I'll go find them and post them.

JF