"Brent" wrote in message
...
Need to sharpen my Craftsman 18" 40cc chainsaw and I've never done it
before.

The manual says to use a 4mm (5/32") round file at 25 degrees but it also
shows a guide.

Googling, I see utube videos, some of which use the guide and others can't
stand 'em; while all seem to use a different guide with a flat file to
even
out the depth gauges.

Where do YOU guys get your chainsaw sharpening kits and which ones do you
prefer?

I have been futzing with mine, and learning a lot. See other threads. I,
too, have an Oregon clamp style filer, and once you figure it out, it is
quite easy. But I came upon a EZLap stone that is meant to go on their
alignment apparatus. But, it chucks up to a drill motor, and by aligning it
with the mark on the tooth, and raising it five degrees, you have the same
thing as all the other fancy stuff. I am waiting until Thursday, as I have
to return it to a town 30 miles away and get the right one. The salesman
swore and be damned that 7/32ths was the right size, but it was 3/16". I am
interested to see how this one will do. I have an EZLap 2" x 6" diamond
encrusted knife sharpening stone that I love. I got a new one this
Christmas, the last one I bought in 1974. Seems like they would make stuff
that lasts a little longer. Not bad at $22, and you can sharpen a dull
knife in two minutes.

Point is, chainsaw sharpening isn't very complicated, but once you learn the
basic angles, you can do it in the field with a hand file. And do a really
decent job of it. So, concentrate on the angles, and not the equipment, and
remember: THERE'S A MARK ON EACH TOOTH THAT GIVES YOU THE PROPER ANGLE.
Line up with that, and you'll be pretty close.

Secondarily, watch for rocks, dirt, wire, metal, barbed wire, etc. When you
cut a log, it helps to smack it a couple of times with a really big hammer
to dislodge sand in the cracks. Do your best to keep the blade out of the
dirt. There are a few fine points, but it is relatively simple once you
understand the basics.

Also pay attention to chain tightness, oiler providing oil, checking bar oil
reservoir level often, bar wear, and turning over the bar every so often to
even out wear.

May sound like a lot, but a little tweaking here and there will prevent a
full hour shutdown to do it all, and possible damage or premature wear.
Steve