On Jan 28, 6:24*pm, " wrote:
On Jan 28, 5:59*pm, DD_BobK wrote:





On Jan 27, 8:49*pm, "hr(bob) "
wrote:

On Jan 27, 4:17*pm, DD_BobK wrote:

On Jan 27, 2:00*pm, " wrote:

Im making my first Hot Water Solar Collector to go on the roof *and
will be using a 60' roll of 1/2" i.d. Copper Tubing in a 2x6" *wooden
box , with a Thermopane Window that comes in a vinyl enclosure frame
to sit on top of the box. *Im going to paint the wooden box , copper
tubing roll , and window enclosure frame *a flat black using special
high temp. paint intended for Solar Collectors . *I suspect the
temperature of the window enclosure frame is going to get *very very
hot in the summer , so, im wondering what sort of adhesive or
weatherstripping I should use to seal the window enclosure frame to
the wooden box that will hold up very well in extremely hot temps and
moisture ? * Thanks.

Since your box is made of 2x6's...water is going to get in. * Consider
in oyur design & fab allowance for liquid water to escape AND water
vapor as well...otherwise you're going to get condensation on the
bottom side of the glass which will interfere with the solar
collection.

cheers
Bob

Do you want to use a thermopane glass? *Won't that keep some of the
sunlight out, or is the heat net loss enough less to cover the extra
sunlight loss?

Bob-

Good catch on the thermopane glass.....I totally missed that.

OP-
I would suggest sizing your collector box such that "free" ancient (as
in no special sunlight transmission inhibiting glass) *sliding glass
door panels could used.
If the frames are aluminum (check with a magnet) you can use wood
working tools (saws, drills, etc) to modify the frame.

cheers
Bob- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The window is going to be special ordered with regular glass...not low
'e' *or tinted . * I want *thermopane glass so heat is kept in the
box *more instead of escaping. *I plan on sealing the vinyl window
frame to the wooden box real well *, but I will put in a couple drain
holes in the box in case moisture condenses in it (which I doubt will
occur) .- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Wood absorbes moisture, dry in your home its around 5-11%, outside
maybe 15% dry, on a roof it might be higher and transmit in and
condense, even oil paint is rated for moisture permeability, Sherwin
Williams will get you the info specs on their stuff, I used to have
their spec book, maybe its online. Sheet metal is best, but if wood is
used paint the whole box. SW has good products and will help at the
tech level so you can seal the wood completely, Ive seen collectors
all fogged up. Get glass with a warranty on the seal and fogging, my
local does it. alt.energy.homepower might have panel makers, Read
the "Born On" date on the silicone sealant you buy, it degrades to
sometimes worthless in 6 months, if its an issue finding new contact
manufacturers like Dow, use what they recomend to clean before
caulking. The high heat and humidity will stress everything. One
consideration you may not have though of I can think is wood expands,
and you will get it real hot, that might ruin the glass seal fast as
the frames expands and contracts daily, there again Metal is best, and
sheet metal is cheap. On metal paint should last much longer, it will
be what 160f in the box? think of the wood expanding- contracting
every day. Ive seen doors move 1/16th" a day, every day, painted black
and they wont get as hot nor were they Flat Black which absorbes more
energy. But maybe im wrong im just thinking