Bending and forcing 12ga into boxes was easier when the overall diameter was
larger and the insulaion was more flexible/softer.

I use a section of 1/2" hardwood dowel with a sort-of screwdriver end
(parallel sides for ~1") and a slot at the other end for manipulating wires.
I made it years ago for work in hot panels, but it works well for any solid
wiring tasks.

Any time I've ever worked with wire nuts, I've wanted to make a socket to
drive them on with a cordless drill, but never got around to it.
I'd use a vise-grip firmly (no crushing) attached axially to the nut to give
a greater turning torque advantage because I always want to get them tight
(not just on) even though the wires are twisted together tightly.

I think there are commercially made drive sockets for wire nuts now, and
also the bent rod swivel tool (no drill required).

There are some wiring plier-type tools (stripper, etc) that have a notch
sorta like a bottle opener, and a hole, that make bending the screw loops
very easy.

I've never wired building receptacles with anything smaller than 12ga.
(around the screws) and find it annoying when I discover that others have.

--
WB
..........
metalworking projects
www.kwagmire.com/metal_proj.html


"Wes" wrote in message
...
Ecnerwal wrote:

You used fingers? I use my pliers - and I much prefer having heavy wire
(and 20 amp breakers) run, having lived in a variety of places with
substandard wiring. I leave 14 gauge & 15 amps for lighting circuits
with limited draw. I dislike being left in the dark, so I keep lighting
and outlets separated always.

Not for forming the loops, but bending the wires and screwing on wire nuts
is getting a
bit hard as my phalanges age.

Lighting and utility recepts on same circuit in same room seems rather
stupid to me also.

Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller