"krw" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 23 Jan 2010 08:20:18 -0600, "Leon"
wrote:


"krw" wrote in message
news
Now if they'd only make a BIGGER one (rat trap?).

It can be used with wider stock and/or kerf if you use a piece of the
crosspiece stock along with the KM-1 - alternatively, there's a how-to
for making a quick and dirty (but equally accurate) lap joint jig at

IN addition to a wider kerf (3/4" would be nice), I'd like the
business surfaces to be larger so I could use 3/4" blocks.

Do you have one?

Yes, but haven't used it other than to play.

How wide of a dado do you want to make?

3/4" would be nice. 23/32" is a popular size. ;-)

If you are using this on a TS and use a stacked dado set simply using a
stacked set up to 1/2" you can cut a 3/4" dado easily with the minimum of
2
passes. Technically you should be making a minimum of 2 passes anyway.

Sure, the KM-1 sets up the two passes. My stacked dado goes well over
3/4" (limited by the arbor, actually).

Unfortunately the Kerf Maker is only designed however to work with "up to" a
1/2" kerf. But that should basically get up up to ~1" with only 2 passes.




I am a bit confused about wanting a 3/4 block? What would that be for?

The KM-1 stop block. 1x material is too thick for the stop block. A
1x doesn't fit in the notch under the gold piece (don't remember the
surface IDs).

Oh, you are talking about the short step that has to be used for the 2 cut
positions. Normal stock you have around the shop would be too thick. Yeah,
that could be a bit taller than 3/4" but that would make the jig larger and
in turn easier to find when misplaced and in turn fewer "replacement of lost
jig" sales. :~) I always have a lot of scrap 1/2" Baltic Birch so that is
not a bid deal for me. In fact my Kreg miter gauge stop works well as is,
instead of flipping the kerf maker 180 degrees I go 90 degrees so that the
longer end is up.





BTW, the stop block clamped to the fence rail works great.


Like I said, allowing 3/4" stop blocks would make it easier to use
too.