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-MIKE- -MIKE- is offline
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Default Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled

On 1/20/10 7:22 AM, StephenM wrote:
First, I think melamine is a mistake. You want the top side to be grippy,
not slippy. melamine also offers a low strenght to weight ratio. I used a
(full) 1/4" plywood product and tt has served me well. Not sure what it's
called but it's a 5 or 7-ply floor underlayment product that goes for a
about $20 for a 4x5 sheet. Sand an wax the bottom for "sliption"


I hear you on the slippery of the melamine. I guess it's 6 for one and
a 1/2 dozen for the other. You wax the bottom of plywood and I use
stick-on sandpaper for the top of melamine. In other words, you start
with grip work for stick, and I'm vise versa.

As for strength, it's really a moot point in this application.


My first couple were like Morris' but I found them too bulky for most use. I
still have a big one, but my the sled that I reach for for 95% of my
crosscutting need has the following properties:
* a single runner,
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/200...Slider-24.aspx


I bought that for the runner on my router table coping sled and I'm not
a fan. It works fine, but it's too difficult to hone in the width.
Next one I buy (if I do) will have the the little nubs that push out
from one side, like this one...
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21651

However, I already made my own out of hardwood and found them to be
superior to the factory made ones, and very easy to make from shop
scraps, which are "free."


* fence is a lamination of 3 layers of 3/4" cabinet-grade plywood scrap
(stable, free and consistent)


That's what I'm aiming at, right now. BTW, the melamine was "free," too.


* fence has a "dust gap" cut in the bottom front edge.
This sled operates best with the fence in the back and the right edge flush
to the blade, but it can be used fence-forward to the right of the blade
when necessary.

Think multiples....one sled will not do it all (well).

-Steve


Thanks for the input!


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