On Jan 13, 6:58 pm, John Martin wrote:
On Jan 13, 8:44 am, "D'ohBoy" wrote:



In trying to come up with a design that will insure my drawer
dimensions (I haven't quite mastered my Keller yet; my dovetails fit
fine, but drawer dimensions are only approximate when I use it) for my
drawer slides, I decided to go with a sliding dovetail.

Seems easy enough when you get the pin (tail? the part that will
slide into the slot) sussed out. But I did notice some caveats from a
number of the google hits. To wit:

1. These joints may not be the choice for drawers that carry heavy
loads. I assume that the use of ball bearing slides alleviates this
concern, as the drawer will open easy no matter what.

2. These joints should not be made with ply as the structure of
plywood is too weak. Really? Even given my use of the ball bearing
slides?

3. Most sliding dovetails are tapered on the pages I found. If I make
the fit slightly loose (very slightly) and use a gorilla glue type
product, will that be sufficient?

Thanks,

D'ohBoy

You can do it, but except in certain circumstances it's a poor
construction method.

If the drawer face overlays the carcase, you'll see the dovetail slot
- so that's out.

If it's an inset drawer with sides at the full width of the front, the
dovetail groove will be very close to the end of the door front.
That's pretty weak, and will split out easily. Don't even think about
a tapered dovetail. Tapered dovetails are good only when the groove
is well away from a board's end.

If it's an inset drawer with a front that overhangs the sides by quite
a bit - as when you are using mechanical slides on the drawer sides -
it will be structurally sound. You'll still see the joint at the top
edge of the drawer, though.

Whatever the style, you have to put it together - and you will not be
able to house the drawer bottom in all four pieces if you use sliding
dovetails at all four corners.

Master your dovetail jig, or learn to cut them by hand.

John Martin

WOW! You guys are full of something! Anyhoo, to put a few things to
rest:

1. These are for a shop cart, and will be edge-banded so I *won't* see
the joint at the top of the drawer.

2. These are inset drawers with slides (sides will be 1/2" from ends),
and I don't plan to dovetail the back end.

3. John, your final admonishment is well taken. But I need to get
this cart done. The materials are scrap, the cart is in the shop, and
if it all fails next week, then I just make some fresh drawers using
other techniques.

As for "cutting them by hand", gimme a freakin' break. It's mostly
retired duuds who live in their shop/lucky guys have time for that.

Again, thanks to all for their very special individual take on this
question ;-)


D'ohBoy