D'ohBoy wrote:
In trying to come up with a design that will insure my drawer
dimensions (I haven't quite mastered my Keller yet; my dovetails fit
fine, but drawer dimensions are only approximate when I use it) for my
drawer slides, I decided to go with a sliding dovetail.

Sides or slides? I'm assuming "sides"...
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Seems easy enough when you get the pin (tail? the part that will
slide into the slot) sussed out. But I did notice some caveats from a
number of the google hits. To wit:

1. These joints may not be the choice for drawers that carry heavy
loads. I assume that the use of ball bearing slides alleviates this
concern, as the drawer will open easy no matter what.

I would think so. Even without slides I'd think it would be fine.

I have a tool storage table with lots of drawers. Drawer sides are
rabbeted - not dovetailed - into the fronts, glued and pinned with 2-3 1/8"
dowels. Wood slides. Some of the drawers are quite heavy - wrenches,
sockets, etc. - and none have failed since I made them 17 years ago. Solid
wood but I'd not hesitate to do the same with ply.
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2. These joints should not be made with ply as the structure of
plywood is too weak. Really? Even given my use of the ball bearing
slides?

See above but solid wood is much nicer.
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3. Most sliding dovetails are tapered on the pages I found. If I make
the fit slightly loose (very slightly) and use a gorilla glue type
product, will that be sufficient?

I almost always make sliding dovetails nowadays. Not tapered, never had the
need. As long as you can get them on (and off) by hand - perhaps with a
light smack - they will be fine with woodworker's glue (Gorilla Glue sucks).

FWIW, I use overlay fronts a lot. That means the side is narrower than the
front which means the dovetail pin in the side is shorter than the socket in
the front. I make extra pins and fill the void with same.



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dadiOH
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