"D'ohBoy" wrote in message
...
In trying to come up with a design that will insure my drawer
dimensions (I haven't quite mastered my Keller yet; my dovetails fit
fine, but drawer dimensions are only approximate when I use it) for my
drawer slides, I decided to go with a sliding dovetail.

IIRC also known as a French DT...


Seems easy enough when you get the pin (tail? the part that will
slide into the slot) sussed out. But I did notice some caveats from a
number of the google hits. To wit:

1. These joints may not be the choice for drawers that carry heavy
loads. I assume that the use of ball bearing slides alleviates this
concern, as the drawer will open easy no matter what.

Heavy loads cause excess strain on the joint because of the
orientation/direction of the force on the joint, as you have probably
surmised.
Ball bearing slides will help relieve the strain when opening the drawer BUT
if the case that the drawer fits into is the limiter of travel when closing
the drawer rather than the limits of the slides being the limit of travel
the excess ease of the heavy drawer slamming shut could knock the drawer
front off.


2. These joints should not be made with ply as the structure of
plywood is too weak. Really? Even given my use of the ball bearing
slides?

Probably.

3. Most sliding dovetails are tapered on the pages I found. If I make
the fit slightly loose (very slightly) and use a gorilla glue type
product, will that be sufficient?

These joints are tapered so that you can actually slide them together. With
out a taper It would be difficult to glue and slide them together. Tapering
leaves every thing relative loose until they are completely closed.
You can make straight slightly loose but too loose would be likely. Use of
Gorilla Glue, you did not mention which Gorilla Glue you would be using
would not be helpful. Although some Gorilla Glues foam and fill voids this
filling in has very very little strength, it is mostly dried bubbles not a
solid bond.

I would say forget this style joint unless you make it correctly. DT's are
not simple and do require practice. I would suggest you figure out what it
would take to make your jig make accurate sized boxes and go with the
traditional through or HB DT joint.

It has been my experience that store bought manufactured furniture that has
the sliding DT joint in the drawers tends to be cheaply made, IMHO it is a
cost cutter joint. I would be more likely to use a rabbet joint over a
sliding DT joint for drawers.